SueD

Do you have the quilt tight on the frame?  You should be able to poke a finger underneath your quilt and grab it with your other hand down to about the first knuckle.  
Are you in stitch regulated or manual mode?  
Is this only happening at a particular speed or all of the time?  At a particular spot in the table or all over?
Do you have casters on the table?  Flooring type - carpet, tile, wood, concrete? 
Have you retightened all the bolts connecting the table to the legs?
I purchased a used Freddie and have been having the same issue.  I've been working with APQS to diagnose and resolve the problem.  After trying multiple things at home, I took the machine to a dealer.  The machine did the same thing on their table so it seems my issue is not with the table.  The machine is now back at APQS and they're supposed to look at it this week. 
Sue

Have you contacted the manufacture (Grace Company)?  That is probably your best option for support.  
There doesn't seem to be very many posts in this forum about Sure Stitch. 

Check out some of the YouTube videos by Angela Walters.  She does most of her longarm quilting without using a stitch regulator - including ruler work (I think).  She learned on a machine that didn't have SR so that's how she quilts on her longarm.  You just have to find the right machine speed that goes with how you move the machine.  

I am so very sorry for your loss.  Your sale will be much easier with pictures, a price, the features, age, and model of the machine, etc..
Best of luck in your sale.

@KellyGold if you click on a user name, it will show some info about them.  That includes the last time they visited the forum as well as some recent activity posts.  I try to be helpful here and let buyers know if they may be responding to someone who hasn't been here for a while.  Anyway, on the seller's activity, I saw a reply stating it was sold.  They must have listed it in a couple of different places here.  

Many thanks to Beth Durand and Angie B at APQS for sticking with my issue and helping to get me up and running! YAY! 
A new Bliss rod was shipped to me and I replaced it myself. Not totally fun, but well worth the 1 & 1/2 hours of my time.
My first quilt on this machine is loaded and making progress.  YAY! 

Cross wound spools should have the thread pull off the top. Straight wound spools should have thread pull off the side of the spool. Have you tried a thread net?  Or possibly silicone thread conditioner like Sewers Aid?  

If you’re on a longarm machine, stick a small piece of batting in the first thread guide above your spool.  It shouldn’t be tight - just to take up some space so the thread can’t jump around in that guide. 
 
Sue

I would say it's personal preference and what you find most efficient.  My only suggestions is to make sure the whole quilt is stabilized (either stitched or pinned) before rolling it back.  You don't want to leave large areas unquilted which could cause your quilt layers to shift.  If it's not stabilized the backing rolls up on the take up bar at a different "rate" than the top.  It's like rolling up a magazine starting at the bound edge - when you get to the end, the pages aren't aligned like the bound edge.  If you glued the pages together, it wouldn't look like that.  You need enough "glue" in your quilt so it sticks together.   
I think there's a video from Dawn @  APQS showing that she pin bastes the outside edges if she plans on turning a quilt to do borders.  
Good Luck!
Sue

I would say it's personal preference and what you find most efficient.  My only suggestions is to make sure the whole quilt is stabilized (either stitched or pinned) before rolling it back.  You don't want to leave large areas unquilted which could cause your quilt layers to shift.  If it's not stabilized the backing rolls up on the take up bar at a different "rate" than the top.  It's like rolling up a magazine starting at the bound edge - when you get to the end, the pages aren't aligned like the bound edge.  If you glued the pages together, it wouldn't look like that.  You need enough "glue" in your quilt so it sticks together.   
I think there's a video from Dawn @  APQS showing that she pin bastes the outside edges if she plans on turning a quilt to do borders.  
Good Luck!
Sue

I would say it's personal preference and what you find most efficient.  My only suggestions is to make sure the whole quilt is stabilized (either stitched or pinned) before rolling it back.  You don't want to leave large areas unquilted which could cause your quilt layers to shift.  If it's not stabilized the backing rolls up on the take up bar at a different "rate" than the top.  It's like rolling up a magazine starting at the bound edge - when you get to the end, the pages aren't aligned like the bound edge.  If you glued the pages together, it wouldn't look like that.  You need enough "glue" in your quilt so it sticks together.   
I think there's a video from Dawn @  APQS showing that she pin bastes the outside edges if she plans on turning a quilt to do borders.  
Good Luck!
Sue

Check out some of the YouTube videos by Angela Walters.  She does most of her longarm quilting without using a stitch regulator - including ruler work (I think).  She learned on a machine that didn't have SR so that's how she quilts on her longarm.  You just have to find the right machine speed that goes with how you move the machine.  

Check out some of the YouTube videos by Angela Walters.  She does most of her longarm quilting without using a stitch regulator - including ruler work (I think).  She learned on a machine that didn't have SR so that's how she quilts on her longarm.  You just have to find the right machine speed that goes with how you move the machine.  

I'd recommend cheap curtain rods like these.  Spend <$10 on a couple these the next time you're near a hardware store/Target/Walmart.  Or find wooden yardsticks.  
https://www.homedepot.com/p/28-in-48-in-Single-Curtain-Rod-in-White-869465/309976524?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-309976880-_-309976524-_-N&
Or spend $55 (+shipping) on these which are ridiculously overpriced and probably why they're hard to find.
https://www.aquilterschoice.com/shop/NotionsLongarm-Supplies/p/Clamp-Supports---Millie-Freddie-Lucey-MY-19-machines-Set-of-2-x50172110.htm
If you want the "worktable" (the Lenni version they sell is $135) - get a couple of the curtain rods and attach (gorilla glue, painters tape, nut & bolt) a piece of plexiglass from your local hardware store on top of them.  You'll spend at most probably $25.  

She does have them in stock and it seems they are clear now instead of the green.
https://boldnotionquilting.com/product/green-resin-scoop-foot-apqs/

Bold Notion Quilting sells one
https://boldnotionquilting.com/product/green-resin-scoop-foot-apqs/

I just purchased a used 2018 Freddie that has bliss.  There are no bumps as the machine rolls along the bliss rails.  The bliss rails are one piece and there shouldn't be any bumps along them.  Definitely check with APQS.  Good luck and let us know what you find out.  

Well, so far APQS has been great about supporting their older products.  For years there was virtually no difference between one year and  another.  Now with the recent "square" machines I'm not sure what all was changed.  If history repeats itself, no worry.  I have a 25 year old machine, and have had very few problems.  APQS was there when I needed help ( I replaced the needle bar and needle bar bushings on my Ult 2 a few years ago.)  The machine I have is simple enough, and fitted with standard sewing machine parts, so that I've been able to deal with the few issues I've had over the 12 years I've owned her.  The standard parts have allowed me to modify my machine in several areas, which has really given me a custom machine more to my liking than a standard model.  I don't think buying a used machine puts you at risk, even in the long time horizon you suggest.  Just my opinion.  Jim

The APQS web page has a retailer locator.  The closest dealers to you are either Tucson or Albuquerque (not very close).  If you're on Facebook, you might join the We Love APQS group and ask there.  
Sue

Check these out for replacement wheels.  https://www.edgeriderwheels.com/products-gammill.php  They're for a Gammill but they would likely work on your machine.  I bought a set and put them on a 2008 Lenni that has the same type of wheel configuration.  They may be just a smidge larger than the OEM wheels.  If you can adjust the location of the dead bar, that shouldn't be an issue.  I traded some messages with jimerickson when I was switching them out.  I think he has an Ult2 with the same set of wheels.  
Sue

It would be great if you could post pictures and where you are located.  And the asking price!

Just a note, if you want to communicate privately through the forum, use the Envelope icon at the top next to your user name.  You can also click on a user's name and then use the Message link in their profile.  This is recommended if you want to share personal information that you don't want visible on a public forum.  

It says "SOLD" in the title.

Mary - you will likely get better feedback if you post more info about your machine - especially the price.  What size is it?  What size is the table?  Are any extras included?  What features does the machine have?  Will you ship or does the buyer need to pick up the machine?  Photos are also helpful.  

Got a RV?  Make a trip out of it.  I picked up my 14 foot rails and bars in Kansas and brought them home (1000 miles) inside my fifth wheel camper.
The girl that bought my machine used a horse trailer to pick it up.  She is a farmer.
Nigel

Betsy - have you ever oiled your thread?  Someone else asked about this in another thread.  I found some YouTube videos showing basically dipping the thread in mineral oil to condition it.  It doesn't seem necessary on polyester threads but might be useful for cottons.  They are adamant that it doesn't leave residue or stain the quilts.
Sue