SueD

You will get more responses by including more information and photos in your post.  Model year, table size and type, used for business or only personal use, any additional features/accessories included, etc.  Some buyers will want to know your reason for selling, too.
Good luck with your sale.

I use the expanding curtain rods.  They're very inexpensive and work just fine.  

You realize the post is almost three years old and the original poster never came back on the forum.  
 
Nigel

You can communicate privately within the forum if you don't want to post your email address.  If you hover over the avatar image, a window will pop up - click the Message button to compose and send a message in the forum.  Only the sender/receiver can see these messages.  
The receiver will have a notification when for their profile at the top of the forum (envelope icon).  You can also send a message there by clicking on the envelope icon, then Compose New but you'll have to type in the recipient's user name.  

You can communicate privately within the forum if you don't want to post your email address.  If you hover over the avatar image, a window will pop up - click the Message button to compose and send a message in the forum.  Only the sender/receiver can see these messages.  
The receiver will have a notification when for their profile at the top of the forum (envelope icon).  You can also send a message there by clicking on the envelope icon, then Compose New but you'll have to type in the recipient's user name.  

Thank you SueD.

I’ve never done it but have seen videos when people quilt parts (1/4 or 1/2) and then stitch together. It’s a quilt as you go method. 
 
For borders added after quilting the main body of the quilt, would you then quilt the borders?  You might have to consider how much quilting you would add to the borders. Quilting makes the piece draw in (shrink). If you add borders that are the same size as the body and then quilt them a lot, they may cause the quilt to not lay flat. You still might be able to wet it and block to eliminate that. 

Donna 
Try the email in the ad.  The poster hasn’t been on the site in almost two years.
Nigel

Do you have just one bobbin case/spring?  If so, you could purchase another bobbin case and some extra springs.  The L size are $12, the M size are $54.  Extra springs are $3-$4 each.
You should be able to see & feel the effect of the spring when the bobbin is in the case.  You should be able to squish it down a bit and feel it pop back up - you know, springy  .  If not, you could try adjusting the arms on the spring and see if it helps.  
Also, have you tried different bobbins?

Sue, I bought some silicone thread conditioner, but haven't used it much because I could never find out how long to dunk the spools.  Just saw a You Tube video about using mineral oil, and based on that, I think I will go with 5-10 seconds, and then let it drip before setting it aside to soak in.  Sewer's Aid has worked very well for me, but it can get expensive, even with 40% off coupons at JoAnn, as it only comes in little bottles.  Thread can definitely dry out, so this is a good option to delay that process.

Just my 2 cents - posting photos and more details will attract more potential buyers for you.  Does it include a table?  Any other accessories included?  Where in OR are you located and what are delivery/shipping options?  

1 - have you considered furniture sliders instead to enable you to move the frame?  Probably cheaper and easier to "install".   I have some under my machine on a carpeted basement floor but don't really move my machine.  
2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xRjSAbl_NU  Here's a youtube about oiling thread.  I've never tried it but have occasionally used Sewer's Aid which is a silicone based lubricant.  
 

APQS warranties typically only apply to the original owner.  APQS will support machine owners - whether or not they are original owners.  I purchased a 2008 Lenni last year and APQS has been very helpful to me when I've needed help.  

Are you pulling down/putting to much weight on the handles?  I did that a couple of times.  I have to consciously force myself to keep a light grip on my handles.  It makes my quilting better plus ergonomically better than a tight grip and tense muscles.

A couple of other thoughts.
Is your table level?  Does the machine roll by itself in any direction?  It may have been level when you set it up but could have settled.  
Check to see if any of your cords may be causing drag.
Are you only noticing the drag with round designs?  If so, it may just take some practice.  I have an older Lenni with no computer or bliss and was struggling to get circles instead of squarcles.   Remember, you're trying to make the carriage move in two directions at once - horizontal and vertical.  Start your design smaller and work your way up to larger circles.  Try stitching out a lower case cursive alphabet (or words or your name) since those "designs" would be instinctive (assuming you can write in cursive).
 

A couple of other thoughts.
Is your table level?  Does the machine roll by itself in any direction?  It may have been level when you set it up but could have settled.  
Check to see if any of your cords may be causing drag.
Are you only noticing the drag with round designs?  If so, it may just take some practice.  I have an older Lenni with no computer or bliss and was struggling to get circles instead of squarcles.   Remember, you're trying to make the carriage move in two directions at once - horizontal and vertical.  Start your design smaller and work your way up to larger circles.  Try stitching out a lower case cursive alphabet (or words or your name) since those "designs" would be instinctive (assuming you can write in cursive).
 

Have you disengaged the QP clamp from the belt?  Disclaimer - I don't have a computerized system but have read a lot of posts here and on FB - that's been a frequent suggestion.  
Make sure your wheels are clean.  Check for any threads that might have gotten wrapped up in the wheels. 

Mine has a metal piece in that groove on the spindle. It’s heavier than wire. It sits in the notch on the bobbins and I assume keeps the bobbin on the spindle. 

Phyllis,
I would suggest to your friend and her son that they not desecrate the flag of the United States of America in this manner.  
As the potential quilter, I would abstain from taking part in any portion of this project.
As an individual who has signed their name on one of the blank checks that has contributed to giving you, your friend, and her son the right to even consider this disrespectful treatment of the flag of the United States of America, I would never use or recommend any quilting business that took part in this despicable treatment of the flag.
I believe your request of information is so contrary to spirit and intent of the hundred of thousands of "Quilts of Valor" that have been lovingly made and presented to our veterans of the United States Armed Forces.  
If your friend wants to make a "throw" for her son, she should make a quilt that honors and respects the symbol of our great country of the United States of America.  Her son can soil her quilt by lovingly using it as the body covering it is intended.  
The young man can proudly and properly displaying the flag of the Unites States of America on his wall, and remember all the outstanding men and women who have served our great nation.  Family and friends will not be appalled upon seeing the flag of the United States of America being used as the suggested "throw" covering.
You may not like my blunt answer, but I for one feels it needs to be said.  To do otherwise, is to consent to disrespecting the flag of the Unites States of America in this manner, and dishonoring all those who made the ultimate sacrifice to make and keep us free citizens of the United States of America.
Besides this one, I wish you all the best in your quilting endeavors.
Cagey
"The flag should never be used as wearing apparel, bedding, or drapery."
https://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/text/4/8
 

It does take some practice. You’re making two sets of wheels move in perpendicular directions to go diagonally. Don’t go too slow and hold the handles loosely. Try one hand on a handle and the other on the back of the machine. Look for YouTube videos by whirlsnswirls quilting. She just did a series of 8 videos about pantos and free motion. Take the thread and needle out to practice or warm up for quilting.  
 
Have you looked at the info on APQS website for tension?  There is some good info there. If you’re having tension issues in one direction only, rotating the needle left or right just a smidge may help. 
 
Sue

I inquired about a twelve foot Bliss table about eight years ago.  At that time a new table was about five thousand dollars.  I doubt they are any less expensive now.
Nigel

The suggestion I've seen most is to cut a piece from an old bike tire tube and slide it over the rails.  If you have a bike shop nearby they might just give you one that's unrepairable.  You could try shelf liner but you'd need a way to attach it without the seam getting caught when you turn the rails - maybe a double sided tape?

The machine heads should be interchangeable on the table frames.  However, you would need to buy/trade the longer rails.  You can contact APQS directly through their website and ask which parts would need to be changed out and what the price of the longer pieces are.  

If a potential client requests something you don't feel you're capable of doing (or capable of doing well), then just explain that.  Not every quilter is good at or willing to do all types of quilting.  Just because a sales person in a store suggested this one thing to your client doesn't mean another client won't ask for the same thing unprompted.   It doesn't really matter whose idea it was - either you can/will do it or your can't/won't. 
Ultimately, it's the customer's quilt.  If they ask for purple thread because someone in a quilt shop suggested it (or purple is their favorite color or any other reason - legitimate or not), and you, as the professional are unsuccessful at changing their mind, then you have two options - A) quilt it as they requested it (with everything documented in writing), knowing it may not look as good as it would with different thread (or quilt design or whatever); or B ) refuse to do the quilting with the understanding that customer may not ask you to quilt any other projects.  
It doesn't seem very productive to wonder about all the things clients might ask for that are above your skill level when that energy could be better spent improving your skills or learning new ones.  

After a short search, Ive not found a specific LED replacement but made some discoveries that helps to narrow down the search and I am still looking for a LED replacement.  In general the square LEDs appear to be in the $0.50 to $2.50 each.
The LED board is very easy to remove. Loose 1 screw and slide the board out.
A 3 position toggle on the board selects White, UV or OFF.  There are no active components on the board, only LEDs, resistors and a toggle switch.  The simplicity of the board again makes for a very easy low risk LED replacement.
The white LEDs are connected in banks of 3.  If one LED fails the entire bank fails.  See the attached picture showing the white LED.  In my case I have 4 LEDs failed hence a total of 12 LEDs not lit.  With a DVM set in "Diode" mode, I can actually turn on individual LEDs installed on the board and have identified a single LED in each back that has failed.
The LEDs themselves have no identification markings on them to help find a replacement.
The white LEDs appear to be the style of 7.62mm square, using through hole wires and runs from 3VDC. 
The through hole wires  along with the large solder pads make it a very easy LED replacement for someone mildly experienced using a soldering iron and solder wick or solder sucker.  See the attached picture showing the leaded LEDs on the board.
THE UV LEDs are a different style but none of these have failed.  See the attached picture showing the UV bank of LEDs on.
The board is marked with "APQS" so they should have the circuit card design to include the mfr and part numbers for the LEDs should they care to share that information.
If I can obtain LED replacements I will create a "How To" video detailing how to replace the LEDs.
As for my background I have 2 Masters Degrees in Electronics Engineering and 40 years of experience designing electronics and managing the development of high technology systems.  Much my experience was performing detailed electronic design, which this board would be of the simplest example.