jimerickson

Don't know what you mean by "knocking", but if it's a kind of popping sound, could be a bad needle.  If it's a metallic click, the hook could be hitting the needle too hard.  A couple of thoughts for you.  When you find the problem be sure to let us know.  Might help someone else in the future.  Good luck.  Jim

Tammie:  I think you will probably need to buy a Bliss rail and have it cut down and fitted to your 7' table.  I doubt that APQS stocks 7' Bliss rails.  Jim

Singer didn't make different bobbins for the Featherweights.  If you look closely, you'll see there is a slot cut in the bobbin holder.  This slot can be made wider or narrower, by either spreading the shaft. or squeezing it.  If bobbins won't go on the shaft you need to squeeze it, if they slip, you need to spread it.  Good luck.

Don't really know anything about "Sure Stitch", but your problem sounds like the horizontal encoder (if sure Stitch) has encoders) isn't turning properly.  Check for thread wrapped around it, and make sure there is enough tension on it to make firm contact with whatever it rides on.  Good luck.  Jim

Don't really know anything about "Sure Stitch", but your problem sounds like the horizontal encoder (if sure Stitch) has encoders) isn't turning properly.  Check for thread wrapped around it, and make sure there is enough tension on it to make firm contact with whatever it rides on.  Good luck.  Jim

Sounds like everything is good.  My Ult2 acted the same way before I replaced her wheels.  However the new wheels fit your rails, by the looks of the "before" photos, they fit tighter than the OEM.  You made a good choice.  Jim

Sue:  I'm disappointed the wheels ride on the bottom of the wheel "V" rather than on the sides, but the real test is whether they are stable.  Does Lenni wiggle at all when you move it?  If it doesn't wiggle then they'll work fine.  My guess is that even if there is some movement, it's under better control than it was with the OEM wheels.  Jim 

Yes.

Sue:  I checked the wheels on my Ult 2 yesterday.  The OEM wheels have an effective diameter about 3/16" larger than the Edgerider Gammill set.  I say "effective" because the profile of the wheel face is different, and depending what type rail they run on, they will sit higher or lower.  Since the change is for each set (machine, carriage), the total height might be as much as 3/8"  I think on your rails, it would be less than that.  On my rails, I think the difference was about 3/8", but I can't really remember, and can't tell from just looking at the wheels.
If you're willing to risk the cost of the Gammill Edgerider set, I think they will work on your set up.  In addition to the wheel set, you will need to replace the wheel mounting bolts.  The bolts that comes with the Gammill set are are metric, while the bolts on your Lenni are imperial (or at least they are on my Ult 2).  The hub of the Edgerider wheel is just over 1/4" thicker than the OEM wheel, so you'll need to buy 8 bolts each a quarter inch longer than the original. ( I don't remember if they are all the same length or not).  The bolts are standard 1/4 x 20 so most any hardware store should stock them.
The Edgerider wheels are two row bearing wheels with a significantly wider base which makes them much more stable and durable than the OEM wheels.  You will notice the difference when they are installed.  The precision of my quilting improved significantly when I put them on my Ult 2.  It also improved noticeably on my Gammill Classic when I installed a set on it. (having the two machines is how I became familiar with the Gammill designed set) 
I'm curious, so risking the purchase price of a set of aftermarket wheels wasn't a problem for me.  In fact, after I fitted my Gammill with Edgerider wheels, I replaced them with another brand of aftermarket wheels.  Not much difference, but both aftermarket sets were much better than OEMs.
Hope this helps.  Jim

Sue:  I checked the wheels on my Ult 2 yesterday.  The OEM wheels have an effective diameter about 3/16" larger than the Edgerider Gammill set.  I say "effective" because the profile of the wheel face is different, and depending what type rail they run on, they will sit higher or lower.  Since the change is for each set (machine, carriage), the total height might be as much as 3/8"  I think on your rails, it would be less than that.  On my rails, I think the difference was about 3/8", but I can't really remember, and can't tell from just looking at the wheels.
If you're willing to risk the cost of the Gammill Edgerider set, I think they will work on your set up.  In addition to the wheel set, you will need to replace the wheel mounting bolts.  The bolts that comes with the Gammill set are are metric, while the bolts on your Lenni are imperial (or at least they are on my Ult 2).  The hub of the Edgerider wheel is just over 1/4" thicker than the OEM wheel, so you'll need to buy 8 bolts each a quarter inch longer than the original. ( I don't remember if they are all the same length or not).  The bolts are standard 1/4 x 20 so most any hardware store should stock them.
The Edgerider wheels are two row bearing wheels with a significantly wider base which makes them much more stable and durable than the OEM wheels.  You will notice the difference when they are installed.  The precision of my quilting improved significantly when I put them on my Ult 2.  It also improved noticeably on my Gammill Classic when I installed a set on it. (having the two machines is how I became familiar with the Gammill designed set) 
I'm curious, so risking the purchase price of a set of aftermarket wheels wasn't a problem for me.  In fact, after I fitted my Gammill with Edgerider wheels, I replaced them with another brand of aftermarket wheels.  Not much difference, but both aftermarket sets were much better than OEMs.
Hope this helps.  Jim

Your hopping foot pushes the fabric in the direction you are sewing, so as Laura and Connie suggest sew in both directions.  Jim

This is the system I guessed.  The after market wheels have much wider bearing placement than the OEM's, and as a result they are much more stable.  I hesitate to make recommendations because I'm not sure they would work, but if it were me, I would try to find a set of Edgerider wheels for an old Gammill Classic and see if I couldn't fit them to my Lenni.  I have a set of those on my Ult 2 and they work fine.  The "V" shape for the Edgerider wheel will solidly position it on the rail so there would be no back and forth movement allowed by the "U" shape of the OEM wheels.  I was able to fit a set to my machine by simply buying Imperial bolts and nuts to replace the metrics supplied with the Edgerider set, and adjusting for any machine height change the new wheels made.
I don't know whether Edgerider wheels are still available for Gammill Classics machines or not.  They also are a bit pricey.  I think I paid about $200 for a set 10 years ago.  The other issue is the lack of adjustment offered in the Lenni table you have.  I built my table so I could adjust the height of my leveling and take-up roller.  I don't think the roller height can be adjusted on yours.  If you decide to pursue this modification, I'd suggest you contact a Gammill dealer or Kasa Engineering directly to check the availability of the wheel set.  If they are no longer available then the whole modification possibility is mute.
Good luck.  If there is anything more I can tell you, feel free to ask.  Jim

Monika:  The table you have will determine what wheel options that are available.  Can you post photos?  A picture of the table, and a picture of the wheels on your Lenni will help.  Jim

All five you mention are good industrial quality machines.  APQS, Gammill and Innova have their own robot systems.  I think A-1 and Nolting use Kasa Engineering's IntelliQuilt system.  Something to think about.
Let me preface what I have to say by saying I have not studied the features closely in about 5 years, so some of what I say may no longer be accurate. While the primary features of all these machines are pretty much the same, there are little differences that can affect how happy you will be when using each.  Bobbin size is one.  All offer M size bobbins, but a couple still offer L size.  Personally, I would not consider an L, but some folks love them. 
All of the top of the line models have high quality robust tables, but the features from company to company do differ. Here's where there is probably more differences than any other aspect of the quilting systems.  Batting access is one item.  Innova, Nolting, and A-1 offer roller lift systems that allow you to access the batting as you go.  APQS does not, and Gammill's system is a joke as far as I'm concerned.  At least one (Innova) has gas strut assisted lift assembly to reduce the lift effort.  I think only APQS and A-1 offer power advance and retreat.  I'm not sure all of these manufacturers offer power lift features or not.  Take up roller structures also differ.  APQS an Innova have dual rollers so that no adjustment of take-up roller height is necessary.  I think both Gammill and A-1 have single adjusting wheels for raising the take-up roller, while you have to adjust both ends of the Nolting roller.
What you plan to do with the machine has a lot to do with the items you find most necessary.  Robot use may value some features (M bobbin for instance) differently than hand guided.  Edge to edge is different than custom work.  If you plan to do robotic quilting, then the features of the robot system itself, and the ease of use becomes very important.
Finally, support is important.  I think all five company's support their product well.  I personally only have experience with APQS, and Gammill, both of which have been very good.  If you study each system carefully, and pick the features that fit your type quilting, a quilting system from any one of these companies will serve you well.  Start thinking about important aspects of your planned quilting, and study how the different machines support your "style".  Careful consideration of this should help you choose properly.  Good luck.  Jim 

Check with APQS.  I think they can probably get you one.  Regards.  Jim

I use YLI Longarm Professional on top, Bottom line in the bobbin, and also avoid quilting in the "rubber".  No special needle consideration.  I would question your choice of batting however.  Thermor is really low loft.  In my experience T shirts turn out better with a lofty batting.  Seems to help with the stretchy knit fabrics.  Good luck.  Jim

Sherri:  It sounds like you may have thread wrapped around something and that's stalling the machine.  Start by removing the needle plate.  Search around the hook  and bobbin basket.  If you find any thread, remove it.  If you don't find thread there, remove the left side cover on the machine and look inside, it's very possible that thread has been pulled into the machine, and is wound around the take-up assembly.  While you have the cover off, add a couple drops of oil to the needle bar bushing.  If you aren't successful in these two places, keep looking 'til you're sure thread tangle isn't your problem.  Good luck.  Jim 

I would be inclined to not charge for the job, or at least offer to do the next quilt for no charge, since it was my fault the quilt was harmed.  Do you think it's good business to offer discounts for bad work?  Just my thoughts.  Jim

I bought an Ult2 and had it shipped from FL to TX.  That was 11 years ago though.  I arranged shipping through an on line shipping website called USHIP.  I don't know whether they're still going or not.  It was a service where you list what you want shipped and the locations, and small independent haulers bid on the job.  There were several levels of service available to the customer, from simply hauling to complete breakdown, delivery and reassembly.  It cost me $550, and was a very pleasant experience.  The fellow that hauled it for me was a school teacher who paid for his vacations and travel by hauling stuff for people.  He did a great job, and I was very pleased.  I had to wait a couple of weeks for him to assemble other items coming the same way, but it all went very smoothly.
Now it's possible that my experience was unusual, but I don't think so.  Based on my experience, I'd highly recommend the service.  Jim

Are you quilting a single piece back, or one you've seamed together?  If you're using a pieced back, which way is the seam(s) mounted in relation to the rollers?  If perpendicular, the seam allowance piles up, making the backing at the seam act like its shorter than the sides.  Because of this, I almost always mount my pieced backs with the seams parallel to the rollers.  That also allows me to pin the selvage to the leaders assuring me the back is square with the rollers.   Jim

My guess is that the thick seams are the problem.  I've broken needles on them before (almost the only time I ever break a needle) while free handing.  Now I try to avoid those type seams whenever I'm quilting.  Slowing down might help a bit, but I don't think that's the answer.
It might help if you were to go to a larger needle (bigger to push, but thicker and stronger), but you can only go up one size to a 5.0 MR.  I personally use Schmetz needles which I think are stiffer and stronger than the MR's, but I don't suppose you have any of them on hand.   With your I/Q it might be worth your time to buy some and try them out.  Mine are Canu 20:05 17, 134 (R) SERV 7, or135x5 SERV 7, orDPx5 SERV 7 (all the same needle, just different applications.  Schmetz advertises you can use a needle one size smaller then MR's with the same strength/stiffness.  I buy them off an online Schmetz website, and they're about the same price as the MR's.  Schmetz stopped making the MR's several years back when they came out with these.  Jim

Are you quilting a single piece back, or one you've seamed together?  If you're using a pieced back, which way is the seam(s) mounted in relation to the rollers?  If perpendicular, the seam allowance piles up, making the backing at the seam act like its shorter than the sides.  Because of this, I almost always mount my pieced backs with the seams parallel to the rollers.  That also allows me to pin the selvage to the leaders assuring me the back is square with the rollers.   Jim

Are you quilting a single piece back, or one you've seamed together?  If you're using a pieced back, which way is the seam(s) mounted in relation to the rollers?  If perpendicular, the seam allowance piles up, making the backing at the seam act like its shorter than the sides.  Because of this, I almost always mount my pieced backs with the seams parallel to the rollers.  That also allows me to pin the selvage to the leaders assuring me the back is square with the rollers.   Jim

PKS:  If you look, you'll see that the conversation about the Lucey is almost 5 years old.  If you want comments about Lucey models, you'll probably be better served by starting a new thread, and asking you questions directly.  If you're new to long arm and looking to buy your first machine, I'd offer that you can't do much better than any APQS model.  If you're an old hand, and want specifics comparing one APQS model to another, ask that question.  Good luck.  Jim

Get the delux.  Better to have more than you need than to need more than you have.  Jim