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I remember reading somewhere that we should only use 3.5 or 4.0 size needles. Superior Threads sells 4.5 needles. Can I use 4.5 on my millie? Also, APQS says to use only their needles. Superior says they are selling APQS approved needles. Have you tried their needles & what about the 4.5?

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Guest Linda S

I've used 3.5 needles since about the second week after I got my machine. I don't like the big holes the 4.0s leave and, while the holes from the 3.5s are large, I think they give a better finish. I know some folks have trouble with them. Is there a particular reason you'd like to use needles that large?

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Linda,

The machines are timed to a 4.0 needle, and as Kelly says you can go up or down one size from there. However, if you try a 3.0 needle (two steps down) chances are good that you won't have enough needle deflection (since the diameter of the 3.0 is so much smaller) and you'll end up with skipped stitches. If you move too quickly, you could also end up with broken needles.

We steer our customers to steel needles vs. titanium mainly for the safety factor should a needle break. The titanium needles tend to break very high, at the weak point just above the titanium coating or where it only has one layer of titanium high on the shaft. This leaves a pretty big chunk of needle to fly around in your hook assembly and cause problems. The steel needles are weakest at the tip; therefore only a small portion of the needle breaks loose if it is damaged and it doesn't typically get jammed into the hook.

Let us know if you have questions! You'll also find some archived articles about needles on my APQS Blog.

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I personally use a 4.0 for literally everything. From SoFine to Polyquilter. In my older machine which was a ULT II I tried 3.5s and snapped them almost as fast I could put one in....the needle bends way more than one would imagine and I kept hitting them. My reason that i now only use 4.0. I have used 4.5 needles, but was only one needle on the only ALL denim quilt I made for a customer.

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Originally posted by DawnCavanaugh

Linda,

The machines are timed to a 4.0 needle, and as Kelly says you can go up or down one size from there. However, if you try a 3.0 needle (two steps down) chances are good that you won't have enough needle deflection (since the diameter of the 3.0 is so much smaller) and you'll end up with skipped stitches. If you move too quickly, you could also end up with broken needles.

We steer our customers to steel needles vs. titanium mainly for the safety factor should a needle break. The titanium needles tend to break very high, at the weak point just above the titanium coating or where it only has one layer of titanium high on the shaft. This leaves a pretty big chunk of needle to fly around in your hook assembly and cause problems. The steel needles are weakest at the tip; therefore only a small portion of the needle breaks loose if it is damaged and it doesn't typically get jammed into the hook.

Let us know if you have questions! You'll also find some archived articles about needles on my APQS Blog.

believe her about the needle breaking --- into 3 pieces, 2 of wich got stuck in the hook assembly ---- and now for a new hook assembly....fun fun

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I use to use 3.5's because DW uses a lot of Batiks, but you will get a better or more even tension with a 4.0 needle an the holes close right up when you wash the finished quilt. Also stay away from the titanium coated needles, they are too hard and brittle, causing more damage when they break.

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I have used everything from a 3 to a 5 (with metallics) with no problem with skipped stitches or need to re-time the machine. I have used the titanium for the most part because that's what Superior Threads sold. I see now they have APQS recommended needles, and I will try those to see how they compare. I rarely do non-stitch regulated quilting, so if a needle breaks (I've had it happen twice)...I can stop immediately. It would be a different story with no stitch regulator. I couldn't react that fast to shut the machine off.

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