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Stencils -- If you could have 5-10 of them, which ones do you recommend?


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I don't have any (yet...) but I am wanting to buy some stencils (blocks and/or borders) to use. Jessica is a big stencil queen, and I know several others of you are too. So, any recommendation on what good ones a girl should have in her "starter stash?" Sizes? Thanks!

Shana (in wet, rainy, and flooding Fairbanks, AK)

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I use stencils mostly for sashes and borders and sometimes for setting triangles. I also use a couple Pam Clarke's stencils 2 " grid to help me chalk in my boundaries for borders and sashes. I also use her star skeletong for the same reason.

And then I get some waves, darts and scroll stencils from

http://www.quiltingstencils.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=70

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I find crosshatching stencils very useful. I have the inch and 1/2 inch sizes. I have several border swirls, florals and several I use for sashings. I seem to do alot of reproduction civil war quilts and have three block stencils in two sizes that are circa 1865. Hope this helps.

Saundra

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I echo Linda C's recommendation of Pam Clarkes' grid stencils. I use the 1 1/2" grid and also the one that divides a block into eighths. These are not stiching stencils though--they are marking stencils to use as guides for other stitching. Like to mark a border or sashing into sections to place motifs evenly across.

You need to come down and visit your sister in Oregon with a sly side-trip to Bayside here in Olympia. They have a room full of stencils, plus pantos, pattern boards, and thread. It is longarm heaven!

Back to the original question--I have a few Celtic-style border stencils--no way can I freehand those, and a few florals that I use as inspiration only. Cables and feather stencils for borders are also on my want-list. Stencils are a great value--some are $2-$3--and you can mark with pounce chalk, a chalk pencil or air/water erase pen.

Have fun and let us know where you find your favorites!

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Shana: no matter what designs you choose when buying your new stencils, I'd encourage you to look at the website www.fulllinestencil.com. I visited their booth at the Long Beach show and they are quite revolutionary. Instead of cuts in stiff plastic, these stencils are a fine mesh on a fabric base...soft and much easier to store. With a pounce pad, you can mark your quilt top with no breaks in the design lines (from the segments that hold old-fashioned stencils together) hence their name Full Line Stencils. Am I explaining this correctly...can you picture it? They have several block, sashing and border designs available. Nope, I don't work for them...just admired their product in the vendor mall. Nancy

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Shana,

I use my Pam Clark stencils all the time, whether it be to mark the center of a border so I can line up a ruler or freehand or even break down the borders into segments and freehand a design and make it all look consistant. I also like her S- shapes and have all sizes. It is a perfect way to get a feather spine and then free hand from there. I use my cross hatch grid a lot too. Of course it is the only way to do basket weaving if you like that look. I have lots of border designs and flowers too. I use parts of these most of the time and try to mix and match a little. Oh yeah Pam clark has a stencil (as I'm sure a few other companies now have) to divide your block into 8 pie shapes...that is really handy to help you get your free-form design to look consistant. I love my stencils and buy some at almost every show!

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I have many stencils and I love to use stencil. I have to say, since I have started using my CL so much, I don't use stencils as often, but if the need arises I will. These are my favorites:

1. Lg Basket Weave SCL-028-12

2. The Pam Clarke stencils that Linda and Linda mentioned.

3. Tulip Bulb MB132

4. Interlocking Hearts HH42

5. Follow Your Dreams HW112 - use this a lot!

6. Interlude #HW166

7. Triangular Trick & Triumph HW136

8. Small Design (No real name) HH3

9. No Name HOL-308-07

10. No Name SCL-354-08

11. Tulip/Norse Triangle HW133

Sorry for the "No Name" stencils. I included the number if you want to look them up. I usually buy my stencils from The Stencil Comany on-line at www.quiltingstencils.com or when they are at MQS.

The stencils I have not tried yet, but am wanting to are

1. the Mini Basket Weave SCL-220-12

2. No Name but looks like little clams with line inside SCL-346-12

Some of my stencils are for background fill. Since I am freehand challenged and want my backgrounds to really look good...this gives me a feeling that I can do it.

I love to work with stencils.

BTW, I didn't list them all....these are the tried and true stencils that I like to use. The others are waiting for the right quilt to come along :)

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One vitally important thing I forgot to tell you about stencils....you can make your own! I know, that is old news, but I did it this week for the first time. I have heard of so many people doing it in the past, but didn't know what materials to use or how to do it really. I have heard to use the paper from Golden Threads...then I've heard no to...what are we to do?? Here is what I have learned...

Use a Dremel to make the holes. Use a very fine jewelers bit and a small collar to hold the bit. You should use a plastic material with some body, or I am using this plastic film that I purchased at Hobby Lobby, I can find out what it is if you are interested, but I would not recommed it. Put a piece of cardboard under the plasic and tape it down with painter's tape.

We all have designs in quilting magazines/books just sitting on our shelves. Use you imagination...there are designs everwhere. I purchased books from Dover Publications when they are 50% off. There are millions of designs.

This is what I did this week to make a stencil and it worked...I may never buy another stencil.

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The Dremel tool hint is great, Mary Beth. Did you paint yours pink?!!

Here is a list or materials that can be used for wonderful handmade stencils--

Base material-- Card stock, clear vinyl (I get the cheapest tablecloth-cover vinyl at JoAnn's--about $3 a yard and very wide), a double layer of ironed-together freezer paper, plain old construction paper (Dawn C's stencil base of choice) or any stiff paper.

To punch the holes, the Dremel tool mentioned, your DSM with a big unthreaded needle, or a large steel craft needle used to poke the holes by hand.

To transfer the design--

For vinyl and the DSM, lay paper with the traced or printed design under the vinyl to stitch. That way the paper on the bottom will keep the vinyl from sticking to the needle plate of the DSM. Stitch those holes with the biggest needle you own.

All the paper designs can be transfered with a light box or sunny window and either machine punched or hand-poked.

One more hint--don't use a pounce pad with handmade stencils. Get a sealable container to hold the chalk and use a foam brush. Dip the foam brush in the chalk, tap off all the excess chalk and push the chalk through the holes. This works so well, you won't believe it!! Saves chalk and there is so much less to remove after stitching.

Most of this I learned on this site. Just wanted to share it back again!

Here's a hint from me--for border stencils or larger feather design stencils, I use the instruction paper that comes inside the W&W batting rolls that I purchase. I lay the paper length to fill the border, fold the paper into the number of divisions I want for the length (like eight repeats of a feather), and use just one section to make the stencil. Poke those holes however you like, and transfer the design with pounce chalk. I wipe the first side well if I need to reverse the design for the other side of the border. Easy, quick, and cheap--and reusable many times!

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I watched a Fons & Porter program once with Marilyn Badger and she uses multiple layers of freezer paper ironed together.

There is also the DBK Stencil Plastic. I have used this and will continue. It is thick enough to hold up and not as slick as the vinyl (has a rougher side). You can get it at Columbia River Quilting for 8.50/4' roll.

I hadn't thought about the Dremel tool....a great idea.

Judy in MO

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  • 2 months later...

Shana,

Just got back from Innovations where I took a class with DeLoa (she is so sweet & talented) she taught us to use stencils in all sorts of ways that make a nominal purchase ($1.50-$10.00 for most stencils) pay off huge. When you get your stencil try looking at the parts that make up the overall design and just use portions of that stencil. Stencils are such a quick way to get a design on the quilt. Karen McTavish also told us that stencils are a suggestion you can follw it exactly or use it as a guideline. I love Pam Clark she is such a great lady who developed an amazing way to get custom designs on you quilt without heavy marking. I suggest you get her entire line of stencils. When I first got my machine I went to her store in Spokane WA and bought a kit that came with several (4 I think) DVDs pattern booklets and all the stencils to make the designs in the DVDs and booklets. The entire set was $125.00 and well worth it. You can buy the DVDs separately too. Her online store is www.homestitches.com I am not affiliated with her just a happy customer. In fact several of the teachers at Innovations suggested that we buy the Pam Clark stencils.

The other suggestion I got at Innovations that I took to heart was to buy multiple sizes of the same stencil (if you love it) Sometimes you might just use a stencil to mark the stem of a feather if you want your feathers to be consistant. Can't tell you how much I love my stencils They make me think I can quilt even if I am a beginner. Not all of us are fabulous freehanders and no one was fabulous the first time. Stencils give you the advantage to knowing the design will look beautiful.

Good luck, once you get bit by the stencil bug it is contagious!!

Lisa

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Here is another suggestion on stencils. I tried to read back through this post to see if anyone had posted before....but I am ill right now and don't have my glasses on and can't read, in fact I don't know if I have my fingers on the right keys right now :)

I subscribe to Dover Publication and get their email notifications and Dover Samolers every Friday. You can save these samples in a file and use them to make your own stencils. Also, the lady that belongs to my guild that taught a mini-seminar or making your own stencil will have an article in the next "On Track" magazine.

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Originally posted by Mary Beth

Use a Dremel to make the holes.

Use a very fine jewelers bit and a small collar to hold the bit. You should use a plastic material with some body, or I am using this plastic film that I purchased at Hobby Lobby, I can find out what it is if you are interested, but I would not recommed it. Put a piece of cardboard under the plasic and tape it down with painter's tape.

I don't know what a Dremel is. I don't know what a jewelers bit is. I don't know what a small collar is or what "plastic material" you are talking about. I have no clue.

I'm sure I'm not the only one who doesn't know what you are talking about, but I may be the only one willing to say I have no clue as to what you are talking about!

A picture(s) would be wonderful! Remember, some of us are challenged.

And thanks, Mrs. A. for the info about full line stencils. They look wonderful.

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