dbams

I used two sided tape to attach my replacement leaders.  I ran a strip the entire length of each roller, using the seam in the tubing as a guide to keep the installation straight.  After I pressed the edge of my new leader down on the tape, again using the edge of the tape/tubing seam as a guide, I added a strip of tape about half the diameter of the roller perpendicular to the already taped down fabric every 18 inches from one edge of the leader to the other.  This helped keep the fabric from being pulled up off the tape.
After 12 years I've had no problems what so ever with the leader coming loose from the rollers.  Now, I have long leaders, so I rarely unwind them til the fabric pulls directly on the tape, which may have helped with the bond.  The installation was both neat, and pretty easy to control.  BTW, the tape I used 1/2" wide stuff I use with my wood working activities.  Hope this helps.  Jim  

There is one more issue.  That is the amount of fabric on the backing roller.  Now backing doesn't take up a lot of room, but it does make the backing roller "bigger".  At a certain point the diameter of the backing roller (roller and fabric) will affect the alignment of the quilt sandwich.  Probably not a practical  issue, but it is there.
I've tried doing this, and found it to be as troublesome as cutting and loading each back separately.  Haven't done it since.  Jim

The limit would be how much quilt is on the back take up roller. The more finished quilt is rolled on that, the smaller your available quilting area will be because your machine will not be able to move as far forward. 

If you want to load enough backing for the 4 quilts, that shouldn’t be a problem. However you may want to cut the backing and remove each one as you finish. Then repin to the take up roller and do the next one. 
 

I don't know how the George's work, but sometimes something like this will happen with a domestic machine.  Check the foot control, and make sure it working properly.  Good luck.  Jim

As a George owner, are you describing the needle going up or down or making a single full cycle when you say it is "stitching by itself"?
If so, I would try warming up your machine and then adjusting the needle up down button.
I think this video might help a bit, https://www.apqs.com/needle-adjustment-fluorescent-fight-machines-video/
Best of luck fixing your ghost George.
Cagey

Thanks for posting that Sue.  I gave away all my manuals when I sold the machines.
 
Nigel

Thank you Sue. I don’t have this manual and I will certainly look it over especially that section.

Not a video, but have you looked at this?  Specifically page 36.  
https://www.apqs.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/APQS-Maintenance-Manual-20220710.pdf

APQS machines don’t record stitch counts. If you’re looking to purchase one, APQS can tell you about service records (provide the serial number).  Also ask the current owner how often they oil and clean the machine. 

I don’t think many machines have gone back to the factory for service compared to the number of machines sold.  The APQS machines are professional quality and are intended to be serviced by you in your studio.  Pretty much any issue you could have APQS will send or email detailed instructions with colour pictures on how to fix.  It’s pretty hard to wear out one of these machines, the mid nineties Ultimate 1 that I bought used 12 years ago still gets used daily in the new owners business.  The Millennium my wife had was used full time in her business for about 12 years before she sold it to another quilter. Between the two machines we probably didn’t spend more than a couple of hundred dollars in parts other than the replacement wheels. 
 
Nigel

Don't feel sheepish, Ida!! We've all been there, in one way or another! But I would strongly recommend that you join our We Love APQS fb group - lots of help there, for those "slap your forehead" kind of days!!

Thank you Barb! Iust have been typing when you were. Thank you so much for responding so quickly! 
Ida

Update! Dumb blond award... I asked my husband for help. He was smart enough to look inside the open end and see screw lines inside. So...there is no metal rod that sticks out of that end. He pointed to the other bar that had a screw in the end. Duh! So, thank you for the help that I don't need. 
Relieved and feeling sheepish in Kansas, 
Ida
 

Ida, that silver extension fits into the "eye bolt" at one end of your table. There is a separate large bolt that goes through the "eye bolt" on the other end - it screws into the end of the roller that DOESN'T have the silver extension. If you still have your assembly instructions, you can go to the section for adding the rollers - all the info is there. There is also a silver collar that serves as a spacer between the "eye bolt" and the end of the roller, on the screw-in bolt end. You can get more help - and lots of photos - if you visit the We Love APQS Facebook page and ask for help there.

I think just telling the welder that you want the table (actually the roller length) shortened to 10 feet.  You need to know exactly how long you want the completed table to be.  Typically table length is the roller length, not the entire table( a 10' table would probably be more than 11' long).  In your case, since the table will be custom, you can specify any roller length you want (e.g. 10'2", 9'9", 10'10" etc).  I would suggest you make the rollers as long as your space will permit.  When you tell the welder how long you want the table, he/she can figure out how long the individual parts should be.  Delivering the table assembled would probably be most helpful.  If you can't do that, at least provide detailed photos of the assembled table.  Special roller lengths aren't anything of a problem because you can make your own leaders, and cut any length you want.  In fact you're probably better off making your own.  That way you can make them any size you want, and out of any fabric you like.  In my case, the rollers are 12' long, so I made the leaders 11' long.  I bought 4 yards of 72" canvas duck, cut in half for the top and backing roller, and another 4 yards which I cut to 48" for the take-up roller.  The extra length (depth?) makes it easier for me to pin, and sew to the end of any quilt.  After cutting the leaders, I surged the edges, and sewed one inch "pockets" on the pinning edge.  Good luck.  Jim

Click on the poster’s screen name and then clic the message icon and send a message.  It will go to their email they joined the forum with.  qtshop has not been on the forum in three weeks.

@Auntda64  a response is unlikely.  The seller last visited the forum in April 2022.  You can try sending them a direct message by clicking on their name and then the Message button.  

@Karla Strachan if you click on the poster’s name, you can see the last time they visited the forum. Evan Duke has not been on the site since April 2019 so it’s unlikely you’ll get a reply. 

Try cutting the thread, strand by strand, or as much as you can each time.  Pull each thread you cut out until the clog is removed.  Good luck.  Jim 
PS: the last resort would be to remove the hook assembly from the machine.  If you do that, you'll have to re-time the machine after the clog is removed.  It's difficult to loosen the screws that hold the hook in place if you can't rotate the hook (turn the flywheel)  A lot of folks are afraid to do this, but if you're serious about long arm quilting, it's something you really should learn how to do.  One more step to mastering the trade.

It may do the trick.  Give it a good soaking and see if that does it.
Good luck and enjoy your new to you machine.

If you dont sell, you can always give to a quilt guild, or schools take fabric scraps too. Just an idea, if you dont sell
 
 

SueD, thanks for sharing a great assortment of options!

Thank you, Sue. You knew exactly what I had in mind!
 

Nigel - thanks for the down to earth and reasonable reply.
I have spent so much time creating a space for her to sew and long arm... I tend to overthink changes and additions.  We will post some pictures of her new sewing room on the pictures thread.  Technology stuff is next (TV and sound/videoconferencing) in the room.
Thanks again.  Have a great one.
Don Fitz.

Don  
In my opinion nothing special is required for the air line or nozzle, you are providing an economical option to canned air.  The five dollar air gun and a 1/4 in coiled hose from Harbor Freight or Princess Auto is sufficient.  I used to hang my air gun off the knob on the end of my backing roller and had a coiled hose to my compressor that was under the end of the table.  My pressure was at 100 psi but anything over about 60 would be sufficient.  Just drop an airline near the end of the table that she likes to do her maintenance.  
 
Nigel