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ffq-lar

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  1. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dianedamico in Regulated stitch mode on Millie   
    If your Millie is newer, it is equipped with Quilt Glide, which smooths out the stitches when doing micro-stitching. If it is on, it will continue to slowly make stitches when you pause in regulated mode. Find the switch to turn it off. If you have an older machine, the needle-up/down speed can be adjusted easily and if it's making extra stitches when you stop, it needs to be slowed a bit. Look in your manual or on the site---look under "support" and then "commonly asked questions" for instructions on how to adjust a small screw under the hood to alter the speed of your needle up/down. Good luck.
  2. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from quiltmonkey in bearding   
    For my own quilts, I use a single layer of wool or a layer of cotton on the bottom and a wool or poly on top. Cotton batting is wonderful stuff, but I longarm and want my efforts to show!  Double batting can be many combos, usually cotton on the bottom and something fluffy on top. Tuscany (Hobbs) has a lovely cotton/wool blend that I love. I use whatever my customers bring, with only a couple on the "will not use" list---which are Fairfield poly (horrible, uneven stuff that if they insist, I have them take it out of the package and inspect for holes and fist-punches) and bamboo, which I don't accept because the linty-ness does a job on my breathing. Double batting is great to quilt on, but it does add weight to a quilt. Most of my customers use doubles for show quilts and those Judy Niemeyer quilts that need the depth for the quilting to show.
  3. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dbams in Disappearing Stitches   
    It's the nature of the beast, SewingDiva.  Puffy batting will hide stitches. Plush fabrics like flannels will hide stitches. Using a thin thread like 50 wt will hide stitches. If you want the stitching to show on flannel, use a heavier weight and a contrasting color---and lengthen your stitch length a bit. Don't mess with the tension. Good luck!
  4. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from InesR in Disappearing Stitches   
    It's the nature of the beast, SewingDiva.  Puffy batting will hide stitches. Plush fabrics like flannels will hide stitches. Using a thin thread like 50 wt will hide stitches. If you want the stitching to show on flannel, use a heavier weight and a contrasting color---and lengthen your stitch length a bit. Don't mess with the tension. Good luck!
  5. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from klwheeler in What is taxable??   
    Laws vary from state to state, so Janette gives great advice.
    I charge state sales tax for everything, including labor.
  6. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Gail O in Disappearing Stitches   
    It's the nature of the beast, SewingDiva.  Puffy batting will hide stitches. Plush fabrics like flannels will hide stitches. Using a thin thread like 50 wt will hide stitches. If you want the stitching to show on flannel, use a heavier weight and a contrasting color---and lengthen your stitch length a bit. Don't mess with the tension. Good luck!
  7. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from quiltmonkey in Disappearing Stitches   
    It's the nature of the beast, SewingDiva.  Puffy batting will hide stitches. Plush fabrics like flannels will hide stitches. Using a thin thread like 50 wt will hide stitches. If you want the stitching to show on flannel, use a heavier weight and a contrasting color---and lengthen your stitch length a bit. Don't mess with the tension. Good luck!
  8. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Quilta93 in leaders not straight   
    Before you do any drastic trimming, make sure your rollers are exactly parallel, both with each other and the floor. The eye bolts of the back roller determine the height from the floor and must all have the same number of threads showing. Ditto with the threads of the bolts of the front roller---those one stick out towards the front and if one side is farther out it will make your backer sag on one side, making you suspect the leaders and not the rollers. Your photo looks more like sag than uneven leaders. If it was set up by a dealer, this should have all been checked. If you set it up, it's not stressed enough in the instructions how crucial this step is to good results. Good luck!
  9. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Gator in leaders not straight   
    Before you do any drastic trimming, make sure your rollers are exactly parallel, both with each other and the floor. The eye bolts of the back roller determine the height from the floor and must all have the same number of threads showing. Ditto with the threads of the bolts of the front roller---those one stick out towards the front and if one side is farther out it will make your backer sag on one side, making you suspect the leaders and not the rollers. Your photo looks more like sag than uneven leaders. If it was set up by a dealer, this should have all been checked. If you set it up, it's not stressed enough in the instructions how crucial this step is to good results. Good luck!
  10. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from sewbizzie in replacing needle, is it in right?   
    I believe Gammill sells small cylindrical needle-aligning magnets just for this task. You insert the needle and place the end of the magnet on the eye of the needle, projecting out towards you. You can easily see whether the needle eye is facing forward perfectly. And if you like "6:25" or "6:35", it's easy to turn it slightly and check again.              https://www.longarmsupplies.net/needlealignmentmagnet.aspx
  11. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from InesR in How to do this   
    The quilt will need to be completely marked before an attempt is made. The marker-on-a-string method works well, or a long (longlonglong) piece of template plastic with holes punched in even increments to mark through---with a blue wash-away marker so the marks stay through the process. Either method needs to have you anchor the center pivot well, so the top needs to be well-secured to the marking surface. On a domestic with the feed dogs up and an even-feed foot, follow the lines. On a longarm, stitched with a guide/template to keep on the line and obviously, one quilting field at a time. Each circle can be stitched entirely by advancing and rolling back. Or each circle-segment stitched as you fill an area, with lots of starts and stops. In either case, you will get distortion (as you can see in the photos--it will never hang straight but is lovely draped) caused by the pushing and pulling of the foot on diagonals. That is accentuated if you stitch all in the same direction every time. It's a beautiful look that's hard to pull off, but well-loved by modern quilters. Perhaps using fusible batting might stabilize it enough to pull it off without as much distortion. 
  12. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dbams in How to do this   
    The quilt will need to be completely marked before an attempt is made. The marker-on-a-string method works well, or a long (longlonglong) piece of template plastic with holes punched in even increments to mark through---with a blue wash-away marker so the marks stay through the process. Either method needs to have you anchor the center pivot well, so the top needs to be well-secured to the marking surface. On a domestic with the feed dogs up and an even-feed foot, follow the lines. On a longarm, stitched with a guide/template to keep on the line and obviously, one quilting field at a time. Each circle can be stitched entirely by advancing and rolling back. Or each circle-segment stitched as you fill an area, with lots of starts and stops. In either case, you will get distortion (as you can see in the photos--it will never hang straight but is lovely draped) caused by the pushing and pulling of the foot on diagonals. That is accentuated if you stitch all in the same direction every time. It's a beautiful look that's hard to pull off, but well-loved by modern quilters. Perhaps using fusible batting might stabilize it enough to pull it off without as much distortion. 
  13. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Gail O in How to do this   
    The quilt will need to be completely marked before an attempt is made. The marker-on-a-string method works well, or a long (longlonglong) piece of template plastic with holes punched in even increments to mark through---with a blue wash-away marker so the marks stay through the process. Either method needs to have you anchor the center pivot well, so the top needs to be well-secured to the marking surface. On a domestic with the feed dogs up and an even-feed foot, follow the lines. On a longarm, stitched with a guide/template to keep on the line and obviously, one quilting field at a time. Each circle can be stitched entirely by advancing and rolling back. Or each circle-segment stitched as you fill an area, with lots of starts and stops. In either case, you will get distortion (as you can see in the photos--it will never hang straight but is lovely draped) caused by the pushing and pulling of the foot on diagonals. That is accentuated if you stitch all in the same direction every time. It's a beautiful look that's hard to pull off, but well-loved by modern quilters. Perhaps using fusible batting might stabilize it enough to pull it off without as much distortion. 
  14. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from MandyM in Batting storage?   
    Hi Bonnie--since your batting roll is stored on a bar, have you tried pulling the end up through the rollers and standing while cutting your length? I use a flexible measuring tape to step out the amount needed, mark with blue marker where to cut, and use the roller to eyeball a straight cut. No crawling on the floor!
  15. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Primitive1 in Basting a Customer Quilt   
    Hi Dory! Attached is the spacing and pathway I use for basting for hand-quilters. It would work fine for DSM quilting as well. I use a long stitch length and thick, slippery, contrasting thread for ease of removal. This path requires no long vertical stitching but you still end up with a grid. The customer can remove the stitching as she goes or save it until the end. I charge a half-cent per square inch and usually do only one a year.  

  16. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from yankiequilter in Suggestions needed for quilter's estate sale!   
    I'm sending good thoughts and a gentle hug, Lin.
    As for the quilter's garage sale---it should be advertised exactly as that and you'll be overrun with buyers. I've seen several pricing methods. One was by the yard---the buyer measured the fabric she wanted on the honor system and paid for the total yardage---$5 per yard. FQs and smaller pieces were done by weight--$5 per pound. A yard of good quality fabric is a bit less than a pound. This way, no one had to measure and price each piece, which takes an army if there is a big stash. Don't do any cutting! Notions in close-to-perfect shape/rulers with instructions, etc---half regular retail. Used notions and partial spools of thread--set up a table with everything the same price---like $2. For our quilt guild boutique at the last show we bagged like-items (six zippers, 5 spools of thread, used notions, buttons, etc, into $2 grab bags. Those went fast! Here's the other method I saw recently. Regular sized paper grocery bags---all you can fit in the bag for $20. This way, only minimal sorting and no pricing. The fabric that was left was sold two week later at $15 per bag. The price went down every couple of weeks until most of the stuff was gone. Put "Prices Firm" signs out so there's no haggling. Quilters know a bargain when they see it. Good luck!
  17. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from delld in Basting a Customer Quilt   
    Hi Dory! Attached is the spacing and pathway I use for basting for hand-quilters. It would work fine for DSM quilting as well. I use a long stitch length and thick, slippery, contrasting thread for ease of removal. This path requires no long vertical stitching but you still end up with a grid. The customer can remove the stitching as she goes or save it until the end. I charge a half-cent per square inch and usually do only one a year.  

  18. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dbams in Basting a Customer Quilt   
    Hi Dory! Attached is the spacing and pathway I use for basting for hand-quilters. It would work fine for DSM quilting as well. I use a long stitch length and thick, slippery, contrasting thread for ease of removal. This path requires no long vertical stitching but you still end up with a grid. The customer can remove the stitching as she goes or save it until the end. I charge a half-cent per square inch and usually do only one a year.  

  19. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from InesR in Basting a Customer Quilt   
    Hi Dory! Attached is the spacing and pathway I use for basting for hand-quilters. It would work fine for DSM quilting as well. I use a long stitch length and thick, slippery, contrasting thread for ease of removal. This path requires no long vertical stitching but you still end up with a grid. The customer can remove the stitching as she goes or save it until the end. I charge a half-cent per square inch and usually do only one a year.  

  20. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from NHDeb in My new written policy re: donation quilting   
    I'll just share that I will be sending a registered letter tomorrow to a "friend" who did something creative with a quilt I had expected to be in a charity silent auction. The letter contains the words "misrepresentation", "misappropriation of funds", and "small claims court". If I see any cash, I'll donate to the charity it was originally meant to benefit.
    "Don't mess with me, I'm somebody's mother. I've taken on much tougher than you." Lyrics from one of my favorite songs!
  21. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Gail O in Wondering   
    A couple of things would help. It looks like the quilt shrunk when it was washed and that crinkled look (which many find desirable) caused the quilting to be not as prominent. Make sure the fabrics have all been washed, both for shrinkage and dye bleed, and that the batting used has little or no shrinkage. That would be 100% poly or several blends, though cotton batting in any percentage will shrink some.  That way, after quilting there will be no shrinkage to cause that "blending" of the quilting. If you have no control over customer quilts, communicate with them as to fabric and batting shrinkage if it's destined for a show. As you can imagine, the award-winners at shows have been carefully assembled with fabric that has been shrunk, treated, starched, measured carefully at every step, and while maybe not washed, at least dampened and blocked. That will retain the crispness of the fabric and the stitch definition of the quilting. So, proper fabric handling and a proper fiber content of the batting will help. Washing and drying in machines will age your quilts. Hand-laundering and laying flat to dry will keep them the same condition and size for a long time.
  22. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dbams in Regulated stitch mode on Millie   
    If your Millie is newer, it is equipped with Quilt Glide, which smooths out the stitches when doing micro-stitching. If it is on, it will continue to slowly make stitches when you pause in regulated mode. Find the switch to turn it off. If you have an older machine, the needle-up/down speed can be adjusted easily and if it's making extra stitches when you stop, it needs to be slowed a bit. Look in your manual or on the site---look under "support" and then "commonly asked questions" for instructions on how to adjust a small screw under the hood to alter the speed of your needle up/down. Good luck.
  23. Like
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dbams in Free to new home Ultimate II   
    You have a taker, Joyce! A quilter named Teri would love to give this a new home. Message me your contact information and I'll pass it along.  lindarech@comcast.net  
     
  24. Like
    ffq-lar reacted to MB_quilt in APQS Millenium for sale (estate sale) *** REDUCED ***   
    Hi there. Its 12 foot rollers.  I'll send you a separate email.
     
  25. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from quilterkp in Just for Fun...Improbable Quilting Business Names   
    Do You Feel Lucky, Punk, Creative Quilting
    My Way Or The Highway Machine Quilting
    Passive-Aggressive Longarm Quilting (right down the road from Shana's Manic Depressive MQS!)
    Big Old Huge Stitches in a Funny Color Thread Quilting Company
    Stashbusters Unite Machine Quilting
    If Life Gives You Melons You Might Be Dyslexic Stitching
    (this is fun!--my fave is Shana's "You Want Me To Quilt Your Ugly Quilt? Ha! Machine QS!)
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