dbams

Top right corner of your post should be three dots.  Click on them and you should see edit, click on that and remove all the type and then type in sold and save.  Don’t know if you can edit that far back, if not I guess you will have to ask the APQS to have the forum administrator do it for you.  

Best of luck
Nigel

Reported

If you plan to start in the center, stabilizing the entire top first is a good idea. Don't stabilize it off-frame---it's easy to do by loading and floating the quilt. Work from the center out, using the longest stitch on your machine. It can be thread-basted or secured with pins. If you use pins, it's easier to adjust areas as you quilt. If you thread-baste, stitching can be removed in areas if adjustment is needed. Just some random advice from a long-time quilter-for-hire who has seen every combo of fabric/thread/backer from customers--- Flannel as a backer has it's own set of challenges. It shrinks like crazy (up to 10% depending on manufacturer, so a 108" flannel backer can shrink down to 97" easily) so pre-shrinking flannel is necessary. If it's quilted before shrinking, the first laundering will result in more crinkle and bulges than you'll like, especially with the non-shrinking poly batting mentioned. Flannel stretches more than woven fabric, so check with each pass for problems on the back and make sure you have steady and consistent tension on the backer to avoid pleats. Not super-tight or you'll stretch the flannel and get "balloons" on the back side, especially if you are using lofty batting. My experience is that Monopoly should be avoided in the bobbin. It's slick and needs a bobbin thread with some "bite" to grab and make a nice stitch. (I think Dawn C gives this same advice.) I use BottomLine pre-wounds with invisible thread---the weight is similar to Monopoly and it works well. You have options as to quilting sequence but can fully stitch an area with FMQ and your SID/ruler work at the same time, especially if you won't have any top-thread changes. Good luck!

I'm so frustrated got 95 inches then started breaking again. Will start frest tomorrow with thread conditioning thanks.

If I remember correctly Leigh has a Millie.  Take a good look at your pigtails, they do get a groove worn into them over time.  Short term fix is to turn them upside down until you get new ones.
Nigel

I’m not sure what table you have without a picture and haven’t looked at new machines in several years but this might be the answer.  On the old deluxe table (I assume it is still the same) remove the Allen bolt at the left end of the leveling bar and then remove the bar from the mounts.  Loosen the lock nuts on the mounts and count the number of turns you unscrew the mount to get to the right height.  Unscrew the other mount exactly the same number of turns, hold the mount in place and tighten the lock nuts, instal bar and test.  When properly adjusted you should be able to to get your index finger up to the first knuckle between the bar and the machine.  
 
Best of luck
Nigel

The couple that owned Circle Lord retired some years ago.  Someone bought out their remaining stock but I don't know the name of that person.  This link to their old site may answer your question.
Enjoy your new machine.
https://circlelordbasic.blogspot.com

I'm in Olympia and shared this to my FB page to tempt the locals. I hope you find a buyer---the price is very good for such a clean-looking machine.

If the fabric with the blue stripe is showing the bobbin thread tighten the top tension.  If the blue fabric is the top fabric tighten the bobbin tension. Play with the tension until the stitches sink into the centre of the batting and you have things balanced.  Good luck and happy quilting.  Welcome to the forum.

If possible, post photos of your top thread path, from the cone all the way to the needle, everywhere the thread touches the machine. Looks like the top thread has popped out of the tension assembly or one of the thread guides - or it needs to be tightened a LOT!

I have a manual in PDF format if you send me your email address, I'll send it to you.

Another thought.  Are your wheels properly adjusted.  The linear bearings on the Bliss rails only work on horizontal movement, and since you've used it mostly with robotics, the vertical movement may have become impaired over time with poor wheel adjustment.  With Bliss, I think a lot of folks think their wheel issues no longer require attention.  Good luck.  Jim

I have been charging $17 per side of each T-shirt but I recently increased it to $18 a couple of months ago. 
 
I have been making these T-shirt quilts for 8 or 9 years. 

My FB page is @DeDe’s T-Shirt Quilts”. 
I have many different styles of quilts. 
if you would like to text or call me, my number is 972-839-0180 and I live in Rockwall, Texas. 

If you raise the back of the table you will be pushing the machine uphill and pulling it downhill.  I think you would find it very hard to control the machine.  You are told to level the machine when you first set it up so it requires equal effort to move in all four directions.
Nigel

Reported

A couple of other thoughts.
Is your table level?  Does the machine roll by itself in any direction?  It may have been level when you set it up but could have settled.  
Check to see if any of your cords may be causing drag.
Are you only noticing the drag with round designs?  If so, it may just take some practice.  I have an older Lenni with no computer or bliss and was struggling to get circles instead of squarcles.   Remember, you're trying to make the carriage move in two directions at once - horizontal and vertical.  Start your design smaller and work your way up to larger circles.  Try stitching out a lower case cursive alphabet (or words or your name) since those "designs" would be instinctive (assuming you can write in cursive).
 

Have you disengaged the QP clamp from the belt?  Disclaimer - I don't have a computerized system but have read a lot of posts here and on FB - that's been a frequent suggestion.  
Make sure your wheels are clean.  Check for any threads that might have gotten wrapped up in the wheels. 

This is a real deal for any beginner wanting to get into long arm quilting cheap.  The stitch regulator alone cost more than twice the selling price.  After market wheels as well.  I have one like this, and it has served me well for more than 11 years  Great machine.  Jim

Mine has a metal piece in that groove on the spindle. It’s heavier than wire. It sits in the notch on the bobbins and I assume keeps the bobbin on the spindle. 

I would contact APQS and see if there is a dealer near you that could possibly take your table. Or they might know of someone looking 
for your size table.  

Let me explain a little further. I guess I should have added that this isn't an American flag. It's a school flag that the child has received permission to use in this manner. 

Did you try the phone number or email in the ad?  The seller hasn’t been on here since they posted the ad.
Good Luck
Nigel

Spam reported.
 

iquilt:  What issues are you having?  You may be up against routine maintenance.  I had to replace the needle bar and bushings on my Ult 2, but things do wear out.  I don't think it had anything to do with the M hook.  It was a relatively easy repair.  Jim 

Diagonal is the most difficult.  Just keep practicing, and don't be too critical of your results.  As to tension, tighten the top tension until the bobbin thread is pulled to the top, then loosen it until you get a balanced stitch.  Remember, tension will vary somewhat depending on which way the machine is moving, and stitches per inch.  (more stitches - tighter tension, fewer stitches - looser tension)  Hang in there and keep practicing.  Good luck.  Jim