wimpy machine

[suzeyg43]

It seems like my Millie has to work real hard to get through seams, I am afraid to get to close on cc's for fear of breaking my needle. Is there a way to pump her up?

[doodlebug]

what size needle are you using....a thicker needle would require the machine to work 'harder'...also- when was the last time you checked the motor brushes??

[nora123]

I Have a millie and I do cc's with no problem and I go over thick seams. You might want to call apqs on Monday, maybe there is something wrong with your machine. I don't know of a beaffier machine on the market than a millie. JMTCW

Nora

[JustSewSimple]

Even my Lenni slices right through thick seams like a hot knife through butter. I am with Shannon, check your needle.

[jmcclannan]

I understand what Suzey is saying because I have brokien more needles than I care to count when trying to go through thick intersections. This has been problem for me from the beginning and it is my only disappointment with my machine.

[suzeyg43]

Shannon I will usually use a #4 and know I havent ckecked my motor brushes but I will now Thanks everybody!

[doodlebug]

i use either a 3.5 or 4 to quilt, but the decision to CC depends on the quilt. if it's a block where i get more than 4 seams in one intersection, i won't CC it because of the bulk- unless the piecer has pressed those seams open to offset the bulk.

when i CC into a bulky seam, even in SR, i tend to slow down so i don't stress my machine or break a needle.

[sewlinzi]

Today we quilted through 2 layers of glazed chintz curtain fabric, 2 layers of poly wadding and 2 layers of IKEA black cos we decided to recycle the practice piece as today's wadding (batting) at FOQ using a #MR4.0 needle with Isacord on top and So Fine in the bobbin...

[DawnCavanaugh]

Suzey,

I've sent a note about your question on to our engineering staff to check out on Monday. On rare occasions I've had to coax my machine through a particularly bulky intersection, particularly if I am moving slowly or have the motor speed set too slow in manual mode. It reminds me of trying to hammer a nail into a piece of wood by tapping the nail slowly with the hammer head. You need enough force to drive it through.

There may be a motor or circuit board adjustment to help with this, but I am speaking purely as a layman here:). I will let you know what I find out when they get into the office this week!

[jmcclannan]

I'll be looking for your response too, Dawn. In the meantime, I have ordered some 3.5 needles to see if that will help. You and your crew are always so helpful.

[ckeindl]

I have absolutely NO expertise - but I have found that alot of the time my quilt sandwich it just too tight! I know alot of people tighten theirs and I ALWAYS used to, but now I tighten until taut and then back off 1 click everytime. That has solved alot of things - and new needles are always a huge help too! I also finally got the "heighth" of my poles-machine to where it is working great for everything! I don't quilt for a business so I quilt lots of "leftovers", charity, cheap fabric quilts for friends, etc. I think the APQS is a tough machine, I have quilted on others too?! IMOHO. Good luck Suzey and let us know what works!

[JustSewSimple]

I am NOT an expert at all but one thing I can tell you is that I use a 3.5 needle for the majority of things I do. I only change to a 4.0 needle when I am using metalics. Others may disagree but I think the 3.5 needle is pretty right on for most quilting and should slice through more easliy. Glad Dawn jumped in and you will get expert advice!!!

[suzeyg43]

Thank you everyone and Dawn I will be looking forward to next weeks info, The machine seems to hum and has a hard time pushing through even on the initial stitch into the fabric, I did have my machine into Carroll a year ago but I didnt know if this was normal or not. Thats why these forums are so great, I can find out whats normal:D Really who can define NORMAL thanks again!

[On Pins and Needles]

Suzey: If you find out anything about this issue will you post it here please. I have the same issue, in fact it doesn't take much of a seam for me to break a needle. I also have times that the needle will go through but won't come back up. The machine will strain and strain and I have to turn the flywheel to get the needle up. It was suggested to me to turn the #8 screw, I've done that a couple of times, still having issues. Cindy

[jmcclannan]

I'm just bringing this back up to see if any answers were unearthed. I'm a little jealous of those of you who never have this problem. Why me???

[RitaR]

On quilts with Very bulky seams I put a drop of Sewers Aid right at the intersection. Often when having thread breaking problems, a light spray of Silicone helps a lot.

ritaR

[suzeyg43]

I have not heard anything yet Julie

I couldnt of said it any better than to say that the machine "Strains"

When I find something out I will post it to let you know.

[lisalnewman]

You two are not alone, although I am sure that does not make you any happier. My machine is doing the same thing right now. I am not sure if you are going at a snail's pace (as I am when I get right to the points of my continuous curve) but when I go a little faster the machine has no problems. It however will not penetrate the bulky seams at the corners of the blocks going slow.

Hope someone has some answers to these concerns for you soon

Lisa

[LinneaMarie]

Girls! Call Amy at tech support! Or Dawn! They have answers!! :P

[suzeyg43]

Just called Kristy and APQS yesterday, First we checked the brushes - they were good Then we did some tweeking...I am going to use the machine for a couple of days and see if this is the fix! It sounds better we will load a quilt with plenty of seams and see what happens! I guess if your machine seems whimpy you should call APQS they are very helpful, very nice and very patient! Will let you know next week how she runs, have a great weekend.

[DawnCavanaugh]

Hi Julie and everyone,

I have finally heard back from both our engineering as well as production departments regarding the issue a few experience with bulky seams.

The first area to check is, indeed, the motor brushes. These help ensure the motor operates correctly. When they wear down, you may notice "revving" or inconsistent motor performance. When the brushes are really starting to wear, they can cause "arcing" and you may notice erratic speed-ups and slow-downs.

The manual's appendix addresses checking and changing the motor brushes.

The next area to revisit is the hopping foot height. Make sure it is only "one business card high" when the needle is in the lowest position. If the foot is too low, it won't properly jump up on top of bulky seams.

Finally, the other factor in whether the machine will penetrate heavy bulky seams actually has to do with how fast you are quilting. It's kind of like trying to drive a nail into a piece of wood. If you tap the nail head a little at a time, the nail will eventually go in, but not without a lot of effort. But if you strike the nail head with force, you will quickly drive the nail in.

So, if you are plunking along at slow speed, your needle may bind up on a bulky seam, just like a domestic sewing machine (I don't know how many times I get the message "main motor blocked" on my Pfaff:)). But when you give it a bit more "gas" then the motor has enough force to drive the needle through. It is okay to use the fly wheel on the left side of the machine to give the needle an "assist" to help it drive through the thick fabric if you're moving slowly. Turn the fly wheel "up" on the left side so that it rotates clockwise.

As earlier mentioned, avoid taut fabric. If your machine has trouble piercing the fabric and you are breaking needles, then it may be time to give us a call. Once in a great while, for example, the hopping foot and needle bar get "out of sync" and the foot may come up a bit too soon or too late. This little delay or premature lift causes the fabric to shift and break the needle.

FYI, I have quilted through some very unusual things over the years, including ostrich feathers, upholstery foam and fabric, and even WWII parachutes. When the needle bogged down on the parachute seams, for example, I helped the machine along with the fly wheel just as you would with a domestic machine. I noticed a lot of improvement when I turned up the motor speed:) If you have a stitch regulator, you would simply move a bit faster to have a similar effect.

Hope this helps!

[ffq-lar]

Thank you, Dawn!

Isn't this company great? Our Director of Education takes time on a Sunday (!) to answer questions and offer suggestions. I love this place!

[jmcclannan]

Dawn, when we talked on the phone last week you sent information on Removing Play from Hook Collar. My machine is running much better since doing that and it seems to not be struggling with thick seams nearly so much now. I'm wondering if it's my imagination or if this might be an issue for others?