dbams

I just purchased a used 2018 Freddie that has bliss.  There are no bumps as the machine rolls along the bliss rails.  The bliss rails are one piece and there shouldn't be any bumps along them.  Definitely check with APQS.  Good luck and let us know what you find out.  

Well, so far APQS has been great about supporting their older products.  For years there was virtually no difference between one year and  another.  Now with the recent "square" machines I'm not sure what all was changed.  If history repeats itself, no worry.  I have a 25 year old machine, and have had very few problems.  APQS was there when I needed help ( I replaced the needle bar and needle bar bushings on my Ult 2 a few years ago.)  The machine I have is simple enough, and fitted with standard sewing machine parts, so that I've been able to deal with the few issues I've had over the 12 years I've owned her.  The standard parts have allowed me to modify my machine in several areas, which has really given me a custom machine more to my liking than a standard model.  I don't think buying a used machine puts you at risk, even in the long time horizon you suggest.  Just my opinion.  Jim

Thankyou Chrissie
 
 

There's a group on Facebook called We ❤ APQS. In the files section, you will find the complete manual for your machine. I'll try and add it here too

The APQS web page has a retailer locator.  The closest dealers to you are either Tucson or Albuquerque (not very close).  If you're on Facebook, you might join the We Love APQS group and ask there.  
Sue

Try using a steel punch or drift and tap the shaft out.  Hold the assembly in a vice and gently tap on the shaft to knock it out.  Remove the lock screw before you begin just to make sure it's not holding the assembly together.  Good luck.  Jim 

Genie,
Thank you for responding to my question. 
Yours was the answer I was looking for.
Thank you again!!
Jan Fisher, Mountain Thistle Quilts

I broke a needle on my 2008 Millie and needed to retime her. I had never done that before. Barb talked me through it. My 2008 is back up and running beautifully. I thought it would be hard but was not to bad thanks to Barb and
APQS videos! I got my 2018 but haven't set her up yet as my 2008 is still for sale. I hope I love her as much as I have loved my 2008!
 
 

I really don't think I was being unreasonable asking to receive the designs that I paid for, the ones that were pictured. 
 

Click on their screen name and send them a message.  It will go to the email they used to join the site.  The original poster has not been here since the original post two months ago.
 
Nigel

Thank you both!  I will keep my eye out for a long arm machine instead.

Check these out for replacement wheels.  https://www.edgeriderwheels.com/products-gammill.php  They're for a Gammill but they would likely work on your machine.  I bought a set and put them on a 2008 Lenni that has the same type of wheel configuration.  They may be just a smidge larger than the OEM wheels.  If you can adjust the location of the dead bar, that shouldn't be an issue.  I traded some messages with jimerickson when I was switching them out.  I think he has an Ult2 with the same set of wheels.  
Sue

Thank you Sue!...Jim had chimed in on my dilemma too.....I'm obsessing over this, but I think I have to get these old worn wheels off without destroying my machine!  I have no clue what adjustments I can make after the old wheels are broken loose and if I get the edge rider wheel.   

You should be able to unscrew the bolts that hold the machine wheels on by simply using an appropriate size wrench (7/16" I think).  If you have a problem with the axel turning, simply clamp it with vice grips to hold it.  If the bolts are really frozen, it would probably be a good idea to soak them in liquid wrench over night to help unfreeze.

If you're running an IQ and are concerned about breakage, it's probably worth your time to try the Schmetz needles.  In my experience, they don't break as easily as the MR's.  Titanium coating only makes the needle more wear resistant, not stronger, so they wouldn't help.  Jim

I agree completely with what Jim said.  
On this machine there is no room to quilt anything other than something just a few inches long.  The area of the quilt that has been quilted and rolled onto the back roller will very quickly fill up the throat of the machine.  It will be impossible to continue quilting.  This machine was not made to move over the fabric, but to have the fabric move under the foot.  I would imagine that it would be difficult to get good tension.
There are used longarms available for sale that would serve you well and save much frustration.  Look for a machine that was purpose built.
Good luck with you search.  I hope that you are able to find a machine that is within your budget and that you can enjoy.

I don't know about the price, but if you really want to long arm, I wouldn't start with this.  I'd look for a good deal on an old APQS, Gammill, or Nolting.  Nothing will kill satisfaction/fun long arming like poor equipment.  The "real" long arms are industrial quality machines, so even old ones can be made to work great.  You'll probably have to boost your budget a few hundred dollars, but in the end you'll be much happier.  Just the opinion of someone who's had 4 different long arms.  Jim

Thank you, Norma!  I like that idea!!

It would be great if you could post pictures and where you are located.  And the asking price!

Check with local guild members.  You could offer a discount to quilt one of their quilts as compensation for making tops for your shop. 
 

I have since received the Visualizer programs for both the circle medallions and the ZigZag/Wave boards and am willing to forward to anyone who needs them.

Your bobbin tension is too tight. Loosen the bobbin tension and also tighten the top thread a bit. Stitch out a test sample and continue adjusting until the eyelashes go away. Invest in a Towa gauge if you don't have one. Good luck!

Mary - you will likely get better feedback if you post more info about your machine - especially the price.  What size is it?  What size is the table?  Are any extras included?  What features does the machine have?  Will you ship or does the buyer need to pick up the machine?  Photos are also helpful.  

Thank you so much Jim! I have a video appt tomorrow with APQS so I'm hoping we can get to the bottom of things. My thought is that it needs to be timed! When it was set up the dealer I had only turned it on and left. Once I got everything loaded I stated noticing tension issues so I tried different threads to see if anything would stay in tension once I got it there, but none made a difference. The other day while trying to complete my assignment for class, the machine made a horrible winding like noise and froze. I panicked of course, ran to power it off and kept it off until after the WD40 bath and then machine oil. Got it up and running, but it just doesnt feel or sound right. Once I get APQS on the video call I will update with any findings. Thanks again for your help! And yes, I oil at every bobbin change, sometimes more if needed. 

Stephanie:  It sounds to me like you have tension issues.  Here's what I suggest: 1) Stop using Glide thread.  I've always had issues with it, and as a beginner I don't think it's where you should start.  After you become comfortable quilting, and adjusting tension, then try Glide.  While you learn, use a strong poly long arm thread like YLI's Longarm Professional.  2)  Tighten your top tension up until the top thread pulls the bobbin thread to the top of your quilt sandwich.  Then begin loosening it until you get a balanced stitch.  3) Study the timing instructions you have for your machine.  Make sure you understand what you're looking at, and how to make adjustments to timing.  It's essential you know how to time if you plan to long arm.  4)  Check the position of the black "finger" the keeps the bobbin basket from turning.  It should have as little engagement in the assembly as it can, and still securely keep the basket from turning.  Too deep an adjustment catches thread,and causes all sorts of issues.
I find that a good bit of both top and bobbin tension produces predictable results.  I've seen a lot of suggestions about tension adjustments that in my opinion, are too loose for good stitch formation.  Mastering tension is of paramount importance.  Start with good strong thread, tight stitches, and go from there.  Hope this helps.  Good luck.  Jim  BTW, oil your hook regularly.  Dry hooks make a lot of noise.