Lifting the rollers


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I have been practicing my rulerwork and have found that my expanded base bumps into the top roller and the leveler roller, limiting the area of my rulerwork.

Technically,how high can these roller be raised/ or how long are those bolts that hold these rollers. We have already raised the rollers a smidgeon to accomodate the CL Giant templates. Maybe this is a question for Amy or Mark.

I would love to have more working area.

Another question, some of you have removed the top roller because you float your top and batting. What are the benefits/issues in doing this? And what the heck do you do with the extra roller bar?

Thanking you folks in advance.

Aloha,

Barb

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........pole dancing......?

(from another thread--I didn't make it up!:P;))

I am sure you can raise both rollers enough to have clearance for the extended base.

If you remove the top roller the only issue I have heard about is that you need to re-learn where the edge of the quilting field is, since so much fabric is within view. Also remember, that roller you remove has a nice straight leader on it in case you want to replace a stretched leader on another roller. Or you can trade out a leader to launder it.

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I've raised 3rd roller bar about a 1/2 inch - the problem is the tension block (the black brreak thing that goes on the top/bottom bars to keep tight) the tension block doesn't fit as snuggly when the bar is raised.

You can remove that bar, but you will need to do something with your break, like put a "fake" bar in the top notch of the break where the top bar was. I think you can use a heavy PVC pipe or a piece of "real" pipe.

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Originally posted by ffq-lar

........pole dancing......?

(from another thread--I didn't make it up!:P;))

I have been trying to erase this image from my mind....trying avoid the nightmares it could bring...and now...here it is again :D:P:D;)

You can raise your bars, the front one you can raise enough to clear the base. I think you need to be careful with the height on the leveler bar, you don't want it too high. It can cause problems with your tension...stitches, etc.

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When I ordered my Mille I ordered from APQS a little short bar that just holds the brake. Then we didn't install the top roller bar since I float all my quilts. Connie, the rep in Lewisville, has this on her machines. She called it the "Texas Hold-em". You might contact APQS about these. It works great!

:D

JULIE

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Omigosh. You ladies are something else & SheriB - your pictures make things very clear for a brake substitute.

Linda R. mmmmmm "pole-dancing" - not with this aging body of mine. But seriously, can this roller be jerry-rigged to hold batting underneath the machine. I think I've seen pictures somewhere on this forum of someone doing that???

Mahalo (thank you) for all your input.

Barb

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Hi Barb,

I think the roller is sooo heavy that rigging it under the machine to hold batting might not work. To replace the batting roll would mean taking the roller (or one end of the roller) from whatever bracket you design to hold it in place, then remove the old roll of batting and replace with another, heavier roll, and then lifting the roller back into the bracket. All while squatting/sitting under the table. Ouch! There are marvelous batting holders that have been shared here. I think all utilize either a length of PVC pipe or a wooden rod to hold the batting. Much lighter.

As for what to do with that orphan roller? You will be happy it has been set aside and saved if you ever need to replace a roller that has warped from leaning on it or over-tightening the quilt top. Just a thought--to save your back from injury!!:)

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I have removed my top roller bar, as I am "vertically challenged" even with my table at its lowest it was in the way.

I have wrapped it in an old king size sheet and it sits between the two legs just about level with thebottom of the table. Easily fits out of the way. My husband cut out a circle from an old bench top and inserted a rod (that goes through the eyebolt hole) that then holds my brake.

To have a visual of where my stitching area ends I have a long selvedge cut from backing fabric, that I stretch from one table leg to the other.

Lyn

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  • 3 weeks later...

1. Get a flash light.

2. Get a phillips head screwdriver with a long neck.

3. pull off the plastic round cover thingies on the left side of the cutter.

4. insert screw driver and remove 3 of the 4 screws.

5. the 4th screw, top, closest to the front of the machine, you need to unscrew the bolt inside the thread cutter opening at the front of the machine, and lower that arm mechanism.

6. NOW unscrew that 4th screw. Slowly pull away from your machine the thread cutter, until you can reach inside from the back and unplug the wire.

7. re-assemble the arm mechanism at the front of the cutter.

Walla! Thread cutter removed.

8. Get some electrical tape, and tape your wire that lead to the thread cutter, tape it to the side of your machine, out of the way of everything.

You now have a Freedom with All the Bells and Whistles, WITHOUT the thread cutter, and you've lost 3 lbs.

Wish I could unscrew a few things on me and lose 3 lbs in 5 min. LOL!

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I have removed my top bar and love it.

I use my centering tape to remind where the end of my stitching area is.

I have always preferred to float my tops, somehow being able to see it all hanging there helps me decide how I want to quilt it. Now if I could just remember what I did on the top when I get to the bottom, hmmm.

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