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From reading some recent posts, it seems like support/parts for some older APQS machines is no longer available. Will someone from APQS identify which machines/parts are obsolete? It looks like electronics are the main problem. Please identify the generation machines which have support and the ones that no longer have support. I've been an advocate for APQS machines in part because of the great past support. Do I now need to qualify that advocacy to only certain machines? Thanks for your reply. Jim

Bridget Click on the poster’s screen name and you will see a message icon. Click on that and the message you send will go to the email address they used to sign up. You will also notice that person hasn’t been on the forum since they posted the ad. Good luck in your search Nigel

Every year I tell myself that I need to finish three UFO (Unfinished Projects (don't know where the "0" fits in)). This year I've set the goal at 3 completely finished projects for the year and my stretch goal is 6 fully completed projects for the year. I've also committed to not starting any new projects until I completely finish at lease 3 UFOs. Well, my friends, it's only February 21, 2024, and I've already completely finished 3 UFOs. *insert fireworks here* Okay, to be honest, two of the UFOs just needed binding, but they had been sitting around unfinished for a very looooooong time. Now they are done. The other UFO I finished was a block swap quilt top with 25 different 12" blocks. The top has been finished for several years, but I was never sure how to quilt it. Well, I just put in on the frame and custom quilt each block, simple sashing and feather borders, roll over binding, and voila, it's done! I'm so proud that I actually finished this one. It has been intimidating me from the corner for far too long. ; ) Now I'm working on two more UFOs. #4 is a flannel pinwheel square in square baby quilt. I need to make 8 more blocks (maybe more depending on how big the finished quilt will be). Then quilt and bind. #5 is 30 embroidered inspirational blocks (27 were already done). I've already embroidered one, just need to embroider two more blocks and then add sashing, borders, quilt and bind. #6 ???? ooooh there are sooooo many to choose from, but now that I'm on a roll, I'm really excited to get these old projects finished. I started making an inventory of unfinished projects and it is a little daunting -- over 25 (mayby close to 40 or 50 quilt tops, but some of those were my mom's that I brought home with me after she passed), a dozen totes and other bags, half a dozen table runners and coordinating placemats, and a few miscellaneous projects. I think I'll do at least two quilts for every three UFOs that I work on. Does anyone else out there have UFOs? What is your strategy for getting them done?

Guest JerryPrawl reported

So it ended up being 2 things! 1) When you take out the bobbin case, inside there the toe of the hook has to be straight up and seated in the center. There is a screw that holds it in place, which seemed a bit loose. So got it centered and tightened the screw. 2) The hopping foot was situated too high - not sure how, when or why, but it's lowered now. So far, everything is AOK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .For Now! Thanks everyone! Linda

I finally got the hook assembly to move. I kept wiggling the flywheel and it began to move. A drop more oil, and it began spinning normally. Now I can see a thread all the way in the back of my hook assembly (the bobbin is removed). Some tweezers helped me get that out. I will need to sew on some scraps to let the oil drips run through before continuing my quilt. Whew!

I note you were told it was modified to go on a Millie frame. I guess that answers whether it'll fit a Millie table. Check and see if the carriage that was used then, is still available. Having that piece would make it a lot easier to fit it to a table. If you can't find a carriage and a table inexpensively, you might be better off buying more modern entire system. I've seen early model Millie's for as low as $3000. Unless you're getting the Ult2 for free or really cheap, the cost of a carriage and a table may begin to approach the cost of a complete newer system. The newer machines would be stitch regulated, and that's a giant step up from the unregulated Ult2. I have a Ult2 that I love, but I've spent a lot of money upgrading it with stitch regulator, and building a new table with electronic channel locks. I spent nearly $3000 just for the basic Ult2 with the original table. (that was almost 15 years ago when used Millies cost a lot more) Jim

After looking again at the photos, you'd need a carriage as well as the table. I'm not sure, but if a Millie carriage will fit the Ult2 shown, you could use a Millie table instead of the Lenni. (I think the millie tables are better than the Lenni's, and probabily easier to find) Jim

It looks like this set up would work on a newer (horizoontal wheel) Lenni frame. The newer frame would be an upgrade compared to the original Ult2 table. Maybe there's a suitable table for sale on this forum. Jim

Glad you got it figured out. Been there done that with my U1 and IQ.

Running Threads...thank you so much! A button was on uggg. No idea how it was on... appreciate your advice. Now I know what to check first!

My experience is that the smaller the circle, the more likely it will be mis-shaped. I guess it's a matter of the ratio of a single stitch to the total number of stitches in the circle. One stitch out of place in relation to 30 total stitches is more significant than one out of 100. I'm not sure this helps, but I hope so. Regards. Jim

Yes take out the backlash spring when using magnetic bobbins. When you put in a standard bobbin you will notice it sits a little proud of the case. Over time the spring will get a little flattened and the tangs can be bent to maintain the proper adjustment. The spring should last almost forever but keep one or two spares for when a spring goes flying across the room and you can’t find it. I used to have a couple of bobbin cases one with the spring for regular bobbins and one without for magnetic bobbins. Nigel

Is there any difference between the "scoop" foot and the "regular" foot on the Ult 2? I thought the only other foot available for the Ult 2 was the "ruler" foot offered by Sherri Butler. Let us know. Jim

What year is your Millie? Is it possible that your power cord is getting hung up in the back? Did this just start? Are your channel locks completely off? I am no expert. Hopefully others will have other suggestions.

Exactly right Jim. The exception being the machines built to Canadian spec there is a second fuse for the motor only. In that case it is usually the motor fuse that blows and everything works but the machine won’t sew. Nigel

I've never had one, but my guess is that the machine would completely stop working. I doubt that a fuse would only affect some functions. Seems like total shut down would be it. Good luck. Jim

It sounds like you might need a new switch. It doesn't seem to be working properly. Good luck. Jim

Thanks, Jim. The table was not square, and you are right - I had to loosen the bolts and "force" it to square it up. Thanks!

Are you talking square or level? If it's square, then your frame is "racked" and needs to have the long corner pushed toward the short corner. I don't know exactly how your frame is made, but I'd guess by loosening the bolts holding it together and forcing it toward square, then tightening the bolts, would do the job. You can check squareness by measuring diagonally corner to corner. Your table will be square when the two measurements are exactly the same. If you're talking about level, then adjusting the height of the individual legs should do the job for you. Good luck. Jim

For years I've puzzled over sewing machine needles and the vast range of nomenclature to identify them. It started more than ten years ago, with my wife's Babylock serger, and has been a puzzle for me ever since. Little by little I'm beginning to unravel this mystery. Heidi's post of a week or so about Schmetz needles got me going again. I have used Groz-Beckert 134 MR GEBEDUR FFG/SES needles almost exclusively, with an occasional Singer 1955 MR needle thrown in. They've served me well, but I'm always interested in trying new things with the hope I might find something that I like better. With that in mind, I just ordered some needles made by Schmetz, and Organ that I think will work in my machine (this is where the mystery comes in) It is difficult to know exactly what needle works in my machine from the package nomenclature. Here are the package ID's of the needles I use, and the ones I ordered: Singer Groz-Beckert Schmetz* Schmetz Organ 1955-01-MR4.0 134 MR CANU:20:05 1 CANU:20:05 17 135x5 Set/R 1955MR 134R 134R SERV 7 DPx5 134 135x5 134 SAN 11 135x5 135x5 SERV7 135x7 797 DPx5 DPx 5 MR SY 1955 DPx5 SERV 7 134R - 1955 DPx5 The Schmetz needle with the * is the one Heidi is using. The other is the one listed as the long arm needle on the web site link that was referenced by someone else in that thread. Now I do know what some of the designations mean. For instance the MR stands for a needle configuration intended for multi-directional sewing. The 1955 represents a style of needle I think, and is probably duplicated by the R, and Set/R designation. The DPx5 I think means the same as the 135x5 and the 134 which I believe is the length of the needle, and the position of the eye. The CANU 20 I think represents the thickness of the needle shank. I know that the SAN 11 is important, but I don't know exactly what it means. Perhaps, how large the scarf is. The MR (multi range) needle provides a particular blade configuration and shank that is stiffer than others to proved needle deflection resistance. The SERV 7 design provides the same sort of benefit as the MR, but in a bit different way. Both have a larger and deeper thread groove in the front of the needle. Interestingly, the size needle recommended by Superior Threads, deals not with what you're sewing, but rather what thread (mostly size) that you're using. I notice that they recommended using an 18 or 19 size needle for King Tut, and a 19 or 21 size for Lava. Perhaps folks who use these threads (I don't), and have problems, have so, because they are trying to use too small a needle. The size of the groove in the front of the needle being the issue, not the needle eye size, needle diameter, or the fabric being sewed. I plan to experiment with the three new to me needles on the list, and find out if, and how well, they work. I'll up date this thread with my impressions and thoughts on each. Jim BTW, I'm not quite sure about the nomenclature on the second Schmetz, and I'll check it, and make any appropriate corrections when the packs of needles arrive. Also, anyone who know exactly what any of the designation codes mean, feel free to share your knowledge.

Yes Sir. I have been put in touch with someone who might can do this. I was hoping not to as I'm certain to end up with a larger work space. Looks like it could be my only option. Again thank you for suggestion Grammie Tammie

Tammie: Have you considered simply having your table cut down? I think it's doable, and having it cut down may be easier than replacing it. good luck. Jim

Tammy: Used APQS machines are great. Industrial quality, great factory support. You can hardly go wrong buying a used APQS machine. Start looking in the used machines for sale forum here. Good luck. Jim

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I have a 2008 Millie. My leaders measure 103.5 inches. The size of table was dictated by the size of my sewing room. I would have bought a twelve foot table if I had the room. In reality the ten foot has served me well and I haven't needed a larger frame. I don't have a quilt business and haven't needed to quilt any king sized quilts.

I just jumped on apqs fb and did a search. I found out that the top of the baseplate has recessed screw holes. Solves my problem!

Well when all else fails turn the machine off and back on. Seemed to fix my problem. Yeah!

This beautiful machine has been sitting here in hopes time would allow for me to start using it, but I cannot seem to carve out time to add longarm quilting into my life, so it is time to pass this on. This is the APQS Millenium 30 from 2022, with gen 5 Quilt Path, and upgraded bliss track, with auto advance. It sits on a 10 foot frame. It has not been used, beyond testing it free motion and linking quilt path to stitch out 1 block design to ensure it was working properly. Pickup would be in Belgrade, Montana and we can help with disassembly and have all the boxes if you want to pack in them for transport. I will include the surge protector system I purchased separately ($550 value). Pricing this low to move this along; it is stressing me out and making me feel guilty having this and not using it. $23,000 come and get it! Reply here, email craftnstuff406@yahoo.com or phone 406-570-two-two-five-zero

I think the idea for having multiple spools is when you are using multiple thread colors on a quilt. You can keep the spools on the holder.

It attaches to the top of the machine with heavy-duty double stick tape. The easiest way would be to purchase a Dritz Cone Thread Holder, Heavy Duty at Joann's. You can always find a discount coupon. Then cut the thread rod to a shorter length, and stick it to the top of you machine using double stick tape. You may need to put something on the bottom of the cone holder if it is not flat. Cardboard or part of one of those plastic yard signs cut to size would work fine. Best of luck with your MacGyver project. Cagey

I have had both - currently have an IQ on an older Millie (2008). I don't have any knowledge about the updated QuiltPath but I found the one I had very difficult to use for custom quilting. I also found it quite slow to do anything. One example would be that even when I set it for the fastest sewing speed, it was extremely slow. Also, we were told to set the design up and send it to the system to sew. It would take forever to be ready to sew. We were told to go get a cup of coffee while we waited. This was unacceptable. I am hoping the system is more powerful now and can process faster. There is absolutely no wait time with the IQ. Also, I found the QP extremely difficult for me because the way you did things was not the way I think. IQ thinks like I do. Test both systems thoroughly - centering a quilting pattern inside a hexagon, a circle, a block, etc. Don't take it for granted that everything will be centered properly! How easy is it to split a design to fit your quilting area or change the design slightly? How easy is it to tweak your design to follow an area that might not be 100% perfect? It is quite easy with the IQ, it wasn't on the QuiltPath I had. Good luck with whatever your choice is but I do recommend quite strongly that you test both systems in operation to be sure you get what will work best for you. My mistake with purchasing the QP when it first came out was a very costly mistake for me.

Contact Angela Huffman at Quilted Joy in KY - she is an APQS Repr, very experienced in both (she sells both). The systems use different technologies for the operating systems and depending on how you learn or like the operating system may help you decide. www.quiltedjoy.com

Thank you, dbams, I really appreciate your response, and agree. I wouldn't need to expense anything I buy that I don't use in the business, either. That's probably the best route for matching revenues to expenses anyway. I am curious as to why Rebecca's accountant hated it, but in my experience, most accountants are not also quilters. My guess is that the level of detail needed to run the business is quite different from the level of detail required to do the tax return.

Thanks for the info, I also want to know it.

Sorry Betsy, I don't have a camera, nor a smart phone, so photos aren't an option. What I did was to use the large wire spool guides that came with my Ult 2, and faced them backwards (toward the back of the machine rather than to the front as intended). I used the screws that held a cover on the back of my machine, to fasten them. I had replaced the original wire guides with some Gammill ceramic eyed guides earlier so the wire ones were just laying around. I took some heavy stiff wire, and bent a hook on each end that captured the wire guide eyes, made a large loop around the cord with a zip tie, then hooked a coil spring about 5 inches long, one end to the zip tie loop and the other to the wire between the two repurpaced thread guides. The full length of the rig is short enough (actually adjustable by the size of the zip tie loop) to lift the cord up and keep it from dragging on the table. The spring serves to provide movement and forgiving tension in the event the cord should get stuck on something. The spring just happened to be one I had laying around salvaged off something else I had at one time. It looks like a short screen door spring with the typical hooks on the ends. Hope this helps you understand what I did. Jim

Jim I think it is not that you cannot fit an IQ to a vertical wheel machine but they don’t have a kit for an APQS machine with vertical wheels. Seems to me your Gammill has vertical wheels and I bet there is a kit for it. I’m sure with your skills you could make the brackets if you spent enough time looking at some other installations.

Jim, Patty Butcher https://www.katydids.net/index.html is both an APQS and Intelliquilter dealer. Other than Myrna Ficken we hardly see any dealers on this site anymore. Actually all the forums I belong to seem to be dying out. I don’t do Facebook but I hear those groups are still very strong.

I have a 12 ft table and have been able to quilt king size quilts on it with no problems. If I get a oversize king, more than 115", I wouldn't be able to do it because the backing would be larger than the top and it wouldn't fit.

Would I be able to buy the sewing head? Sylvia

Please call the Service Department at Grace Co. for help on this - our machines are not that different, but there may be subtle but critical differences in the hook area. We can give you general suggestions but your machine's manufacturer is the proper source for help.

Sounds more like timing issue than tension. Check your owners manual section on timing, and see if you can't ID, and resolve your problem. good luck. Jim

The number one reason is the needle is in backwards. Two would be you hit a bad seam or your ruler and the timing is off. Third I would check the hook doesn’t have any fore and aft play, to check this take out the bobbin case put your first two fingers behind the hook and your thumb on the centre post and pull and push. There should be no play if there is you loosen the Allen screw on the collar pull the hook forward, push the collar back and tighten the screw. Please let us know how you make out as it may help the next person. Nigel

Well, I guess I've solved the "hairy, smelly quilts" issue in a way we never expected. We have moved from Washington State to Kentucky to be closer to family. My husband has been dealing with cancer and heart issues the past five years and we're both in our mid 70's now, so I sort of took it upon myself to begin searching for a home nearer to family who can help if needed. When he saw what I'd found in a home and the awesome price, he readily agreed to the move. Hubby is in remission at this time and we are so very thankful for that after nearly 54 years of marriage! Our eldest grandson helped with the long-distance inspections, etc, and we bought a house sight unseen! WHEW! It needs a few changes here and there, (and I'm sure grandson will be helping, lol), but it's a great home and we're enjoying the wonderful views of the countryside and mountains in the distance. We sold all our furniture and things that wouldn't fit into a U-Haul Pod, shipped what we coculdn't part with and hit the road in my new Kia Soul. It was a fun adventure, and we're finally settled again. My Lenni is set up again and I'm happy as a clam to be able to work on my own quilts for now. Many thanks for all the input on the above subject! I'll keep all the suggestions in mind, should I decide to quilt for others again.

2010 APQS Millie with 14 foot table. $7,000. Auto bobbin thread cutter, motorized advanced with foot pedal, stitch regulator, acrylic base expander. Other features too numerous to list. Located in southern Pennsylvania, one hour from Harrisburg, on PA, Maryland border. Cash, bank check or personal check. Phone 717 655 7529

Intelliquilter might be able to answer your question as they have parts for Compuquilter.

I have a 2008 Millie with IntelliQuilter. I love it. The 2 work very nicely together. Originally I had a CompuQuilter and love those together but when the company started having problems I switched to a QuiltPath (pretty soon after it came out) and I hated that system. I couldn't get rid of it fast enough. I went with IntelliQuilter and have had it now for about 7 or so years. It can handle anything I throw at it from simple edge-to-edge, pantos, to custom. IQ has a great program that is being upgraded all the time and customer service is the best. Check it out.

Could someone please take a picture of the front of their machine to show me how these leaders are supposed to look? Thanks in advance.

I bring this thread forward for the benefit of our more recent joining members. I'll look and see if I can find a source for the Schmetz SERV 7 needles, and if I can, I'll add that to the thread. Regards. Jim

If you do customer quilts down the road,you should let them know you have a cat who loves your quilting studio. You can and will have customers who do have allergies to cats. It is best to disclose pet Information. My business is listed as per free and smoke free, since I have allergies to both.