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To Float or Not and Why


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Hi Laura

I fully float, all the time.

To make sure the bottom edge doesn't curve up you need to make sure that every time your roll on, the quilt top is as straight as possible.

After the first roll on, I stand at the front of the machine and smooth the top so that it looks "eyeball" straight.

Then I choose a horizontal seam, preferabbly one that goes from one side of the quilt to the other, a row or blocks, or some other reference point that repeats across the top in a straight line,

I place my hopping foot edge on that reference point, somewhere neard the centre of the top

then smooth the top from the centre to the edge so that the seam line stays along the edge of the foot as I move the machine from the centre out. This might mean pushing the fabric towards or away from you.

This works well to ease in fluted borders - its hard to explain in words though!

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I used to roll my tops but now I float them all the time. I followed Manquiter's video and my tops come out a lot better. I do like the idea of taking off the bar, may have to try that since I am so short. I have the quilt top leader wrapped up on the bar and held tight with the round clips from Dave Brown. I use a laser square to ensure my sides are straight, place clips on the backing bar to help keep it nice and secure, then I baste the sides.

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I can hardly remember not floating. Once I learned how to do it, I took off the quilt roller and it is under my machine with batting stored on it. I have just found it quicker and I can look at the entire quilt. I have an old wooden table with my Lenni so I do something kind of wonky about keeping it straight. I measure from the side of the bar to an inside border seam both right and left and write this down; then when I turn the quilt and straighten it out I remeasure and then baste - it will keep it straight for me. I also eye ball a seam across the bar. All of this depends on your quilter and how perfect a piecer they are.

Everyone finds their own way of loading the quilt and whatever works for you - do it!

Quilt Away

Sharon

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Kath, I'm at work now but will try to insert the link. I have the Stanley-77. They give you two perfectly straight lines. I set it against my level bar and use the laser line (red line) for a reference. There may be others on here who can explain it better. Here's the URL http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-77-188-Laser-Level-Square/dp/B0007M6B9A/ref=sr_1_1?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1285685269&sr=8-1 (guess you'll need to cut and paste).

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Brendalee, I don't have a quilt on my frame right now. If you go to Dave and Jane's website, they have a few pics of the clips. As soon as I can I'll send you a pic of how I us them to control my "floater". Go to Dave-Jane's site

http://www.countryquiltsncrafts.com/. Click on shop, then Long Arm accessories you'll see the pics. Dave and Jane have great products!!!! I have 2 sets for my 10FT frame.

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  • 1 year later...

I'm in the boat that doesn't float. :P

Actually I do what Heidi and Bonnie do -- it's called a partial float.

I've always preferred to pin the bottom edge of the quilt top to the leader and slowly roll it on to the leader and smooth out the top as I roll along and I watch the piecing lines as I roll so I can keep it straight.

I feel pinning to the leader gives me control and helps me to keep it aligned so when I'm in the quilting process, I don't have to fuss with it so much later.

Now... the little table runners and tiny quilts under 20 inches... I don't do that. I float those.

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Guest Linda S

Wowee - old, old topic. Anyway, I still prefer attaching my top to the quilt-top roller, but when it's easier to float (like the huge Bali Wedding Ring I've got on now), I get more control of that top by using the magnetic tool holders (about 18" long) that I get at Harbor Freight. They help hold the quilt top and batting in place on the bottom roller as I do each roll, straighten and smooth the quilt, and then get it pinned squarely. I still just prefer attaching the top to the roller - makes it so much easier to keep the top straight with lots fewer pins!!

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I tried floating and attaching the quilt to the roller bar. I found that when I floated large quilts I had issues when I got to the bottom, even when I was careful getting it to advance straight. I even measured the quilt when I advanced, but still had issues when I got to the bottom. Now, I only float the small quilts. Anything larger than a twin, I usually attach to the bar. And with the leader grips, it's really no big deal to attach the quilt to the bar. But I found that if I pinned the botton of the quilt then quilt it, when I advanced the quilt and get to the bottom, I am really straight and right on. I pin the bottom of every quilt even if I don't float.

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Whew ,I just put my second quilt on today ,watched a quick u-tube how to load the bottom and then the rest came back to me but one thing I did was eye ball the quilt top ,layed it just below the backing and batting then set my channel lock and did a dry run across the top ,made adjustments then sewed it across ,thats where I am at right now ,last quilt I pinned before I sewed across ,oh well ,hope it comes out ok .

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