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I really dislike binding. That said I am trying to learn how to do it right so maybe it will at least be tolerable.

One question I have is why is there always one corner that won't turn right? I think I am doing them all the same when I sew it on, but when I turn them to sew the binding down there always seems to be one that doesn't want to cooperate.

Any suggestions?

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The one thing that works consistently for me is to switch which is "on top" at the corner, so that the side that was "underneath" on the "top" of the quilt is "on top" on the reverse side. Hard to describe, but it seems to take some of the stress off the fabric and makes it all go more easily.

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It helps when you get to the corner...to sew off the edge toward the corner at a 45 degree angle before flipping the binding up, making your fold, then starting down the other side.

Its also really important to get your seam allowance correct. If you are sewing a quarter inch seam, for example...you need to stop exactly 1/4 inch before you reach the edge, then sew off at a 45 degree angle to corner. Flip your binding up exactly to the edge of the quilt, then back down, and sew an exact quarter inch seam down the side.

When turning your corner to hand sew down the binding, one side of the corner will contain the bulk where you turned the corner. Tuck the bulk in the opposite direction on the back when you sew the binding down. Its a bit awkward to do this, but is essential for a smoother corner,

Generally, though, the problem is with the seam allowance...or not starting and stopping at the correct spot. Secondarily, it is the way you folded the binding up, then down. Too high up and you have a corner that is sort of dog-eared...too far down and you have a rounded corner.

Hope that helps.

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Wow, Lynn...thanks for the great description. Bindings are the only part of the process I can say I do reasonably well...get lots of compliments. But I couldn't have answered the question better. I haven't done the 45 degree angle to the corner before...but I'll try it on the next one.

Anita

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I usually end up fussing and poking and pinning and prodding, using a ballpoint awl to tuck and fold. Lynn is so right about the seam and sewing off at a 45 degree angle according to your seam allowance. Also when you trim the edges, leave a little extra batting so the binding will be full when you turn to hand finish. If you use 2.5 in binding, folded in half=1.25, sew a quarter inch seam, that divided is half an inch. I measure from the stitching line a half inch and trim. That also depends on how thick the sandwich is. If it seems thick I trim to 3/8 inch. And don't forget, to quote a judge I had at MQS one year: Your miter in the binding should match the miter in your borders. HAHA:P Try that one!:P I'm still laughing about that one. 3 out of 4 isn't bad!:mad:

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I find that using Sharon Schambers method of glue basting works very well. Before I did that I found that I could stretch one side as I was stitching binding on and it might be a little wavey. I don't have that problem when I glue it down. Lyn is right that you must get your seam allowance correct to have it turn and look pretty. There was a post I'm think 1 - 2 years ago that explained how to put the binding on one side at a time and then sew in your miters. I can't find that post now but that method works really well. Then you don't have to flip to go around the corners. I'll keep looking to see if I can find the directions in my sewing room. I thought it was Linda Rech that posted the method but I couldn't find it in my search. It was good alternative to the method of applying the binding in one continuous piece.

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Heidi, What didn't you like about it? I haven't tried it yet. I just found an article that tells how to do it. I'm also planning to watch to online videos that show it done. I'm not sure if I would like it or not, but it might be quicker. I have 6 finished quilts here that need binding only to be bed ready.

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Originally posted by chickenscratch

How many of you do your binding on the longarm?

I do mine on the LA. It works GREAT!!! I had a shoulder injury and it was just too hard to wrestle my big quilts under my regular sewing machine.

The only thing I don't like about it is...I always liked to sew my binding on from the back, flip it to the front, and either hand sew it or machine stitch it on the front. When I use the LA it does it backwards from that. I still do my mitered corners the same way as you would on your regular machine.

Still...it's a great way to do it. Takes almost no time and very little effort.

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The problem is probably in my seam allowance.

I have done them on my LA and actually they come out better then. But that means hand stitching on the back. As I said I REALLY DISLIKE binding, so that only happens on very very special quilts.

I use a binding tool/ruler but I can't remember the name or where I got it, I'll have to look that info up.

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Originally posted by chickenscratch

Heidi, What didn't you like about it? I haven't tried it yet. I just found an article that tells how to do it. I'm also planning to watch to online videos that show it done. I'm not sure if I would like it or not, but it might be quicker. I have 6 finished quilts here that need binding only to be bed ready.

I couldn't get the seam allowance as consistant and found I have more control on the dsm. I'm pretty picky about my bindings though!

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I have been using my longarm to apply binding since last fall. Linda Robinson demonstrates how to do this on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BnJStsH7pdQ. One of the changes I made, after trying her method a couple of times, was to start with one end of the binding, rather than in the middle of the binding. I did this because I was having a problem getting the corners turned correctly. By starting at one end I just stitch it as I would if I were doing in on my DSM. Then the corners get folded correctly! I also usually use a ruler to get the accurate quarter inch seam.

Using my longarm means no wrestling with the quilt on the DSM!

Nancy V.

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Lynne...How do you like your binding tool from Annilee....I find that mine catches on the hopping foot on the horizontal bindings...so much that it really is impossible to use safely...I think it's the solder on the foot that is catching going in that direction...do you have any problems like that with this tool?

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When sewing a binding strip on, I narrow my seam slightly as I approach the corner and as I leave the corner. That way it is not so bulky.

I've also started trimming the quilt a 'fat quarter inch', and slightly stuffing the binding as I hand sew it on -- that way it is nice and full.

Thanks for the great tips everyone!

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I also dislike sewing the binding to the back by hand. Some years ago I found a pattern called "Machine Binding with Accent Strip" by Barb's Elegant Designs for $4.99. Her website is barbsed.com. You prepare your binding and accent fabric like 2 bindings, but each are not as wide. She gives different sizes depending on how much accent you want. Then you sew them together the long way & press WST leaving just an a bit of the accent fabric showing along the folded edge on one side. You then sew on the back, flip to the front, & stitch along the accent fabric. It looks like a piping. You can see this technique on the one block wonder quilt I just posted yesterday. I used the measurements of 1 3/8 for the binding & 1 5/8 for the accent fabric - you only have to pay attention to how sew to the back so that when you flip it to the front your accent is on that side. I use this almost exclusively on larger quilts. I also stitch exactly to 1/4" & off at a diagonal & usually have good luck with bindings looking good for being sewn both sides with the DSM.

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I like to sew binding on large quilts with the longarm, then whip down by hand on the back. For smaller quilts I will use the DSM and sew to the back first, flip to the front and sew down with a blind hem stitch or a decorative stitch. I just ordered that binding pattern mentioned above, too. That looks interesting.

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